Sultan brewer leads honey wine revival

Ironically, Denice Ingalls discovered mead on a dry college campus.

She first came across the ancient honey wine in English literature classes at Pepperdine University in California — “Beowulf” and the writings of Chaucer abound with mentions of the drink. But she never imagined that years later, she’d be running one of the most prolific meaderies in the nation.

After all, mead went out of fashion centuries ago — didn’t it?

Don’t be so sure. When Ingalls started making Sky River mead 10 years ago from her father-in-law’s honey processing plant in the Cascade foothills, there were just a handful of meaderies in the country. Most were in upstate New York, and they could be easily counted on one set of hands.

Now, Sky River Brewing is one of a growing number of mead producers, and the Sultan-based meadery has distribution throughout the Northwest and as far away as Kyoto, Japan.

Mead is undergoing a reincarnation, evolving past its roots in ancient Greek and Viking traditions. Centuries ago, European mead was a dark, sweet heavy drink — different from the pale golden liquid Sky River bottles year-round.

Old-style mead isn’t culturally relevant anymore, Ingalls said. Unless, of course, you spend a lot of time lounging around a library in an overstuffed leather chair with an Irish wolfhound at your feet.

“That’s not how we live,” she said. “If you don’t live that way, the wine is going to be, at best, a pretty ornament.”

Sky River distributes three honey wines: dry, semi-sweet and sweet. A fruited mead is due to hit shelves soon.

“Sweet honey wine — ancient drink of kings and poets,” one bottle label reads.

“The sweet mead was really sort of a tribute to history,” Ingalls said. “It’s not the way King Arthur would have drank it, but we don’t eat the way King Arthur ate.”

She said Sky River meads pair well with foods that sometimes clash with grape wines, such as Indian curries or Thai dishes. The sweet mead is reminiscent of a dessert wine, and the dry mead works well with poultry or game.

Recent years have seen a surprising number of new wineries open in Washington. More than 600 are licensed, doubling the number there were when Sky River opened in 1999.

Alcohol sales are usually countercyclical in a waning economy, and that trend seems to be mostly holding true during the current recession. Take-out bottle sales and consumption were up in 2008, according to data released last week by the Connecticut-based Beverage Information Group. But growth wasn’t as pronounced as it was in past years, and consumers aren’t splurging on expensive drinks.

Complicating things further, wine and beer distributors are consolidating to better weather economic pressures. That means a tougher market for small breweries and wineries.

Sky River hasn’t felt the pinch too harshly, Ingalls said. They produce 3,000 cases annually, capitalizing on the advantage of selling an unusual product with little, if any, local competition.

“Right now is not the time I want to be going into a grocery store and trying to convince them that my chardonnay is better than your chardonnay,” Ingalls said.

Sky River mead usually retails for about $12 a bottle. Most specialty wine shops carry Sky River products, as do regional supermarkets such as Top Foods, Haggen, Whole Foods and QFC.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Business

Everly Finch, 7, looks inside an enclosure at the Reptile Zoo on Aug. 19, 2025 in Monroe, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Monroe’s Reptile Zoo to stay open

Roadside zoo owner reverses decision to close after attendance surge.

The Lynnwood City Council listens to a presentation on the development plan for the Lynnwood Event Center during a city council meeting on Oct. 13, 2025 in Lynnwood, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Lynnwood City Council approves development of ‘The District’

The initial vision calls for a downtown hub offering a mix of retail, events, restaurants and residential options.

Trade group bus tour makes two stops in Everett

The tour aimed to highlight the contributions of Washington manufacturers.

Customers walk in and out of Fred Meyer along Evergreen Way on Monday, Oct. 31, 2022 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Closure of Fred Meyer leads Everett to consider solutions for vacant retail properties

One proposal would penalize landlords who don’t rent to new tenants after a store closes.

Downtown Everett lumberyard closes after 75 years

Downtown Everett lumber yard to close after 75 years.

Paper covers the windows and doors of a recently closed Starbucks at the corner of Highway 99 and 220th Street SW on Oct. 1, 2025 in Edmonds, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Starbucks shutters at least six locations in Snohomish County

The closures in Lynnwood, Edmonds, Mill Creek and Bothell come as Starbucks CEO Brian Niccol attempts to reverse declining sales.

Keesha Laws, right, with mom and co-owner Tana Baumler, left, behind the bar top inside The Maltby Cafe on Sept. 29, 2025 in Snohomish, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
A change in ownership won’t change The Maltby Cafe

The new co-owner says she will stick with what has been a winning formula.

Holly Burkett-Pohland inside her store Burketts on Sept. 24, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Burkett’s survives in downtown thanks to regular customers

Unique clothing and gift store enters 48th year in Everett.

A person walks past the freshly painted exterior of the Everett Historic Theatre on Sept. 24, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Historic Everett Theatre reopens with a new look and a new owner

After a three-month closure, the venue’s new owner aims to keep the building as a cultural hub for Everett.

Everett businesses join forces to promote downtown nightlife

A group of downtown businesses will host monthly events as a way to bring more people to the city’s core during late nights.

Former barista claims Starbucks violated Everett law

The part-time worker wanted more hours, but other workers were hired instead, the lawsuit alleges.

The Sana Biotechnology building on Tuesday, Aug. 19, 2025 in Bothell, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Bothell loses planned biotechnology manufacturing plant

New biotechnology manufacturing jobs in Bothell are on indefinite hold.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.