Arhus, Denmark’s second-largest city, has a population of 300,000 and calls itself the “World’s Smallest Big City.” Arhus (OAR-hoos) is an entertaining cultural hub, with a funky and mod art museum, Denmark’s largest cathedral, a downtown open-air folk museum, a nearby prehistory museum and a bubbly “Latin Quarter.”
AroS – the Arhus Art Museum – is the city’s must-see destination, if only for its architecture. The building, square and unassuming from the outside, has a surprising bright-white interior with a spiral staircase winding up the museum’s three floors. The building has two halves, one for the exhibits and one for administration. The halves are divided by a passageway, which has free entry if you just want a peek at the interior. You’ll also see the squatting sculpture of Boy (by Australian artist Ron Mueck), realistic, yet 15 feet high.
The permanent collection features paintings ranging from the Danish Golden Age (18001850) to modern art, including many multimedia installations. Be sure to visit the basement, where amid the black walls artists from around the world exhibit their works of light and sound in each of the nine rooms (De 9 Rum). Don’t miss the rooftop terrace and its super view of the city (for more info, see www.aros.dk).
Arhus Cathedral, located nearby but in the heart of the city, is Denmark’s biggest church. At more than 330 feet long and tall, it began as Romanesque in 1201 and finished as Flamboyant Gothic in the 15th century. Its altarpiece, dating from 1479, shows the 12 apostles surrounding John the Baptist and St. Clement, the patron saint of Arhus and sailors (his symbol is the anchor, which you see in the church).
The area called Den Gamle By, an Old Town open-air folk museum, originally put Arhus on the tourism map. Seventy half-timbered houses and crafts shops come with old furnishings. Highlights include Torvet (the main square), the mayor’s house (from 1597) and the toy museum. Unlike other Scandinavian open-air museums that focus on rural folk life, Den Gamle By recreates old Danish town life.
Fans of Danish history will have more to enjoy at the Forhistorisk Museum Moesgard, a prehistory museum at the town of Moesgard, just south of Arhus. It’s famous for its incredibly well preserved Grauballe Man. This 2,000-year-old “bog man” looks like a fellow half his age. You’ll see his skin, nails, hair and even the slit in his throat he got at the sacrificial banquet. (Be happy that Danish hospitality standards have improved since then.) The museum also has fine Stone Age exhibits. In the backyard, you’ll find a few model Viking buildings, plus a 12th-century stave church. In the summer, you can hop on bus No. 19 to get from Arhus to the museum and back.
Whether you like art, history or both, make sure to make time in Arhus to explore its Latin Quarter. The small, trendy, pedestrian-friendly streets in this part of town, northeast of the cathedral, will make you fall in love with Arhus. The Latin Quarter is a hyggelig (cozy) neighborhood of picturesque lanes and charming cafes. Cafe Jorden, located in the Quarter, has tasty sandwiches, salads and burgers. It’s a good bet for a fun and fruity brunch, lunch, or a light dinner indoors or on a quiet but people-filled square.
Arhus’ Viking founders, ever conscious of aesthetics, chose a lovely wooded setting, where the river hits the sea, to found this town. Today, Arhus bustles with an energetic port, an important university and its engaging sights. A town filled with people living very, very well, Arhus merits a stop on your Scandinavian circuit.
Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, ) is the author of 30 European travel guidebooks, including “Europe Through the Back Door.” He hosts a public radio show, “Travel with Rick Steves” (Saturdays at 2 p.m. on KUOW 94.9 FM) and the public television series “Rick Steves’ Europe” on KCTS, airing some weeknights at 7 p.m. This week’s schedule:
Monday: Switzerland’s Jungfrau Region: Best of the Alps
Tuesday: The Majesty of Madrid
Wednesday: Highlights of Castile: Toledo and Salamanca
Thursday: Normandy: War-Torn Yet Full of Life
Friday: Belfast and the Best of Northern Ireland
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