Bargain reds enhance cool summer eves

  • By Jeff Wicklund / Special to The Herald
  • Saturday, June 9, 2007 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

Red, red wine makes me feel so fine, especially with the sparse sunshine during the typical Northwest summer.

All this banter about “light, refreshing, zippy” white wines being the “correct” choice as a warm weather beverage (I know, guilty as charged) has to be tempered with the reality that, for all of us in the Perpetually Stained Tooth Club, it’s a difficult proposition to set aside those wonderfully warming, rich and satisfying red wines for any length of time. After all, evening barbecues, sunsets at the beach, sailing on Puget Sound or just a veranda gathering would usually be enhanced (in our neck of the woods) by a light parka and a glass of red wine through the bulk of what the calendar says is summer.

That said, there’s a multitude of really nice red wines flooding the market these days and, given the time of year, there are some great values to be had. Here are a few standouts from around the world that have impressed me as of late and make up this installment of “Wick’s Picks – Top 10 Summer Reds.” (Distributors listed in parentheses, if you need to call to find the nearest retailer.)

I’ve selected two wines from this huge quality-to-value winery from Argentina. Gouguenheim Winery is in the Tupungato Valley, a cool area within the Mendoza Valley. This small family-owned estate is producing some really great wines, and after just a few samples of the wine, I was blown away by the quality of the brand. This syrah is just packed with rich black fruit flavors and hints of pepper and a long lingering finish. Think lamb chops on the BBQ. (A &B Imports)

This is the second wine from this winery that had to be acknowledged for its amazing depth, concentration of fruit and value. In a blind tasting you’d swear you were drinking a wine 3-4 times this price. This Bordeaux variety has found a new home, and popularity, in Argentina where the country’s climate is ideally suited to the variety. The wine is a beautiful deep violet color with aromas of black raspberry and currants with a hint of vanilla.

Here is a brand-new winery in Oregon making a wacky splash in the industry with this inaugural release of a delicious and robust syrah using fruit from Washington’s Columbia Valley. The whole anti-establishment thing is working overtime at this winery, and the end product is all about irreverence and good juice. Here’s a little touch of what they have to say for themselves, “I’m afraid you won’t get any geeky, fluffy wine descriptions out of us. The only descriptions that matter are the ones that you come up with yourself. When we first crafted this wine, we kicked back and enjoyed it over the course of an evening, and we found ourselves wishing we’d had a second bottle ready to go. The second time, we had some neighbors over, and lively discussion ensued. That was all she wrote. Bottom line? This wine is YUM-EE! Throw some burgs on the bar-b, call over some friends, and start the party going.” I couldn’t have said it any better. (Elliott Bay Distributing)

A blend of 60 percent grenache and 40 percent syrah, this wine is a fabulous example of how high quality Cotes du Rhones can be made, especially when the fruit is sourced from vines that are 90 years old. This bold Cotes du Rhone has a dense, deep purple color and flavors of black cherry, black currant and an herbal, spicy, licorice component that is hugely intriguing. This is a full-bodied, luscious wine that should age gracefully for several years, but why wait at this price? (A &B Imports)

What a great value wine from the La Mancha region in Spain. Made with 100 percent old vine garnacha tintotera (like grenache on steroids), this wine is intense in its color (more “deep purple” – I’m having a ’70s flashback), aroma (raspberries, strawberry jam &rose petals) and flavor (rich, ripe black cherry and spice). (Casa Ventura Imports)

This has been a favorite wine of mine for many years, but this may be the best yet. It’s 100 percent cabernet franc from the little village of Saumur along the central Loire Valley in France. Ripe, rounded cabernet franc with a classic ‘cut pepper’ nose and a good concentration of red berry-fruit underpinned by supple tannins with some light, minerally nuances. This wine is a great partner for a hunk of stinky cheese. (Triage Imports)

“Monster reds are my passion, and my travels have led me far and wide in pursuit of the red beast, Zinfandel.” These are the words of Christian Tietje, head winemaker and owner of Four Vines Winery. This Old Vine Cuvee is made with fruit sourced from vineyards in Mendocino, Amador, Sonoma, Paso Robles and Lodi counties and has beautiful concentration, structure and character. Lots of raspberry, licorice and Asian spice on the nose with gobs of blueberry, blackberry and plum flavors and a smidge of toasted oak on the velvety finish. (Cascade Trade Imports &Distributing)

Here’s a chance to get a delicious Washington cabernet sauvignon with a few years in the bottle to smooth out some of the rough edges. This wine is loaded with dark berry flavors, hints of chocolate, toasty oak and spice and is just begging for baby back ribs and corn on the cob. (Friendly Distributing)

Wow! This wine is a monster blend of 40 percent zinfandel, 25 percent petite sirah, 25 percent syrah and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon from prestigious vineyards in Oakville, St. Helena and Stags Leap districts of California. Aromas of red and black plum are in the nose and are followed up with a touch of mocha. On the palate, a broad array of dark red fruits gives way to well-integrated tannins, and good acidity supports the core of the fruit. It’s time to bust out a rib-eye steak for this bad boy. (Cascade Trade Imports)

What a follow up to last year’s muscular beast of a wine. This rendition, although still sturdy, lightened up a bit and buffed out a few of the rough edges. This is a 100 percent Walla Walla Valley wine that is 57 percent cabernet sauvignon and 43 percent syrah and is quite simply a drinker. Curt and Vicky Schlicker are on a roll, producing one outstanding wine after another. This wine is no exception, with layers and layers of ripe blackberry and plum, plus hints of dark chocolate and tar flavors. This wine pairs well with anything, including burgers and kabobs – and a slightly chilly summer night in the great Northwest.

Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, 360-756-0422 or wick@purplesmilewines.com.

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