Beyond beefsteak

  • By Debra Smith / Herald Writer
  • Wednesday, May 11, 2005 9:00pm
  • Life

Nothing compares to the succulent flavor and texture of a homegrown tomato.

Purple, yellow, pink, striped, pear-shaped, globelike, gigantic, tiny, tangy, tart or sweet – thousands of varieties in a parade of colors, shapes and flavors are available.

Photo Gallery

Jeff Thompson, of Edmonds, in his greenhouse full of tomato plants, wh… [ view gallery ]

And, yes, many of those varieties will grow here in the Northwest.

With a little work now, tomato nirvana can be yours.

It’s not hard to grow tomatoes at home, and doing so is a more economical choice than purchasing them from the store.

A $2 packet of seeds can produce dozens of plants, which can each produce pounds of tomatoes.

Even if economics were no concern, consider the taste.

The tomatoes that show up at the grocery store are bred to arrive at market unblemished, and taste is often sacrificed for toughness, said Jeff Thompson, a master gardener and longtime tomato grower.

Even some of the tomatoes sold still attached to the vine are picked green and artificially ripened, he said.

“There’s really no comparison to homegrown tomatoes,” said Josh Kirschenbaum, a spokesman for Territorial Seed Co. in Oregon. “There’s nothing better.”

Territorial is a mail-order company that sells dozens of varieties of tomatoes, including heirlooms.

Heirloom tomatoes, those varieties passed down from one generation to the next because of their superior flavor and growth habits, are always popular sellers, he said.

In the six years Kirschenbaum has worked for the company, he’s noted an uptick in the popularity of heirloom seeds and plants.

Part of the reason may be that heirlooms aren’t available at the supermarket and customers are longing for those juicy, tasty tomatoes Grandma used to grow.

“Heirlooms are too tender to ship,” Thompson said. They’d squash before they ever get to market.

Heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated, meaning their seeds are gathered from the fruit each generation and saved. Open pollination ensures the qualities of the parent are passed on to future generations.

The most economical way to grow tomatoes is from seeds you’ve saved. If you’re just getting started now, purchase a young tomato start instead.

There are many mail-order companies that sell heirloom and other unusual varieties of seeds. Some companies sell tomato starts and will deliver the plants right to your door. Area nurseries carry tomato starts and seeds too.

There is the local seed rack, but Thompson cautioned against purchasing seeds from racks that have been sitting outdoors in the sun for weeks. Plus, there is no guarantee the varieties available will grow well in this climate.

Local plant sales held by gardening organizations are often great places to find tomato starts.

Garden club members contribute their own plants at these sales. Local tomato aficionados are more likely to have experimented with different varieties, learning which plants perform the best in this area.

Thompson, for instance, grew more than 350 tomato plants in his homemade greenhouse in Edmonds to sell at a recent Snohomish County master gardener plant sale.

He grows a variety to share with family and friends he calls Grandma’s Grape, an exceptionally sweet tomato passed down from his mother.

Varieties of tomatoes can be selected by the length of time it takes for a plant to produce mature fruit. Many cherry tomato varieties ripen first and are often categorized as “early” or “ultra early.”

Earlier is better for a Northwest climate with its short summers, but earlier isn’t always better when it comes to taste. Early-season tomatoes are typically smaller and less tasty, Thompson said. He advised growing a few early and midseason types to see what you like.

Stay away from varieties that have maturity dates longer than 80 to 85 days, Kirschenbaum said. The exception is if you can start seeds ahead of time in a greenhouse or under fluorescent lights inside.

When choosing tomatoes, consider whether the variety is determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes produce the bulk of the crop over a few weeks – perfect for canning or making sauce.

Indeterminate varieties continue growing and producing fruit over the entire season. These varieties are a better choice for those who’d like a few here and there for a salad or burger.

Thompson’s favorite variety? “Sun Gold, everyone should grow one,” he said. “Oh, they’re wonderful. They’re sweet followed by the perfect tomato aftertaste.”

Reporter Debra Smith: 425-339-3197 or dsmith@heraldnet.com.

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