Heading into fruitcake season probably is a bad time to bring this up, but I have to tell you … I love Brussels sprouts. It’s not just the flavor, which, when the little vegetable is cooked properly, is really quite delicate. It’s also each little head’s miniature perfection. If you cut one open and really look at its inner construction of tiny leaves curling tightly against each other, and the gentle green to creamy white color scheme, you realize – it really is a work of art.
In fact, it’s probably my inner artist that compels me to treat a Brussels sprout the way I do: a quick blanch to bring out the bright-green blush, followed by a quick saute in butter. That’s it. Delicately crisp and to the point.
But like anything in life, it’s a matter of taste. A California friend and fellow food writer, Elaine Corn, has a conflicting opinion regarding the amount of time a Brussels sprout should spend in boiling water. In a nutshell, Elaine believes that a Brussels sprout should cook long enough so that when thrown against a wall, it will make a satisfactory splat.
“None of that ‘al dente’ stuff,” she ranted at me one time. “You have to really cook a Brussels sprout before they’re worth fooling with.”
She has such exquisite taste in so many other areas of food that I’ll allow this one transgression. For me, overcooking creates a mushy, strong-flavored disaster – the stuff of youthful shudders.
For the best quality, both Elaine and I agree, they should be bought by the stalk. You never know how long those little celo-wrapped boxes have been around.
Make sure the sprouts are bright green and firm. Heads should be tightly closed and the leaves tightly furled. If the outer leaves are yellow and wilted, turn your cart about-face and head for the broccoli display.
Preparation tips
To blanch or steam? Both methods work well and both have their drawbacksd. Blanching preserves the brilliant green color, but the sprouts tend to absorb some of the water. Steaming, on the other hand, because you have to cover the pot, tends to turn them slightly gray if you let them get away from you. If you can watch your time, and plan to eat them immediately, steaming is preferable. But the advantage to blanching is that they can be cooked almost to the point of doneness, cooled quickly, then finished at a later time in a skillet with a bit of olive oil or sauce.
Steamed Brussels sprouts: Wash and trim sprouts (larger sprouts should be halved). Bring 3/4-inch of water to a boil in a steamer. Place the sprouts in a basket and steam just until tender. Small Brussels sprouts will cook in approximately 6 to 8 minutes; medium sprouts, 8 to 10 minutes; large sprouts, 10 to 12 minutes. Cooking times depend upon the freshness of the vegetables. They should be tender but retain a slight crunch. If not eating them right away, cool them off immediately by immersing in cold water to preserve their color and texture. Once cool, remove to a towel and dry thoroughly before storing in the refrigerator.
Blanched Brussels sprouts: Wash and trim sprouts (larger sprouts should be halved). Boil tahe sprouts in a large pan of boiling salted water just until tender. Small sprouts will cook in 4 to 5 minutes; medium sprouts, 5 to 8 minutes; large sprouts, 8 to 12 minutes. Drain, place in cold water to set the color, or serve immediately.
Finishing touches
Buttered: Before serving steamed or blanched Brussels sprouts, roll them in a skillet with some melted butter; cook until heated through. Or, Top with lightly browned butter. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Polonaise: After steaming or blanching, saute with butter and a sprinkle of dill. Heat through, then add lemon juice and salt. Transfer to a serving platter. Add a little more butter to the skillet and cook until it’s browned. Fry some fresh bread crumbs in the browned butter. Meanwhile, sprinkle a finely minced hard-cooked egg over the sprouts, then pour on the butter and crumbs.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com
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