‘E verybody knows … everybody says … “
These are some of the most deceptive words in gardening. Just because something is conventional doesn’t mean it’s wisdom. A lot of views “everybody” subscribes to in gardening are simply myths, and some ideas that have been accepted by “experts” have, with more time and research, proved to be wrong. There are lots of garden myths out there, so while you’re enjoying the warm, cozy indoors, let’s take on a few of them.
Myth 1: Newly planted trees need to be staked and guy-wired.
This is generally incorrect. Balled and burlapped and large container trees are bottom-heavy enough to stand on their own. Wiring kills far more trees than it helps because in most cases, the wires are never removed. As the tree grows, it grows around the wire, and the wire cuts off the vital flow of moisture under the bark.
The only living part of a tree trunk is the layer of living tissue, called cambium, just under the bark. When the tree grows enough to embed the wire, the pathway of life-giving nutrients is cut off. Eventually the tree will grow past the depth of the living wood and will die.
It’s not the staking and wiring that kills the tree, it’s the lack of stewardship. This happens especially to street trees, which are stuck into holes in the ground and then never visited again. They die unless the stakes are removed within one year of planting.
They die if they aren’t watered. The same can happen in your back yard if you aren’t paying attention.
Plant the tree in the ground properly and leave it to bend in the wind. It will grow stronger in the process. If it’s a little crooked, you can easily straighten it the following season.
Myth 2: When planting a new tree or woody shrub, dig the hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball.
The latest research concludes that new trees and shrubs need a solid platform on which to rest. Planting trees and shrubs too deep is another big mistake that can kill the plant. What you want to avoid is getting the root collar (the flare just above the point where the roots join the main trunk) covered by soil or mulch. The roots need moisture, but the bark and trunk need air. If you cover the root collar, soil against the bark of the tree will rot it, causing the same girdling effect as wire. The plant won’t die right away, but it might decline over years. If you have a balled and burlapped tree, make sure to remove any ties that are holding the burlap to the trunk or stems. If you leave them, they will girdle the plant and eventually kill it.
When planting the root ball, install it approximately 25 percent higher than ground level. Toward the outside of the area where the root ball will be placed, you can dig a little deeper. Place the tree or shrub and fill the hole with a mixture that’s one-third compost and two-thirds native soil. Pack it firmly so there are no air pockets. Water it well, and make sure the soil stays moist, not wet, while the plant establishes itself, or until the ground freezes, if you’re planting in fall or early winter.
Myth 3: Newly planted trees and shrubs should be fed regularly.
Trees don’t eat. They drink. They don’t need more fertilizer, they need water to absorb the nutrients that are already available in the soil. Trees and woody shrubs get their nourishment by absorbing nutrient-rich moisture through their cells – the process of osmosis. They need properly moist soil that is airy enough to allow the roots to grow and absorb the minerals that the soil holds. Clay is loaded with minerals. If it’s mixed with enough organic matter, it will be easy for the roots to reach out and take what they need.
Test soil before planting. The pH, or acid-to-alkaline balance, must be correct. Some plants, such as azaleas and rhododendrons, like more acid soil. Some sun-loving flowering shrubs, such as lilacs and forsythias, prefer “sweeter” soil. Soil Test, Snohomish County Cooperative Extension, 600 128th Street SW, Everett WA 98208 gardening.wsu.edu
The Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service.
Myth 4: Plants must be watered constantly.
Plants need to be watered when they need water – and not before or after. This is not rocket science. Just stick your finger in the soil. If it’s dry, water. If it’s moist, don’t. If you overwater plants, you will often kill them.
Myth 5: Drought-tolerant plants don’t need to be watered.
Yes they do, especially when they are just becoming established. Xeriscaping, the practice of using native plants to minimize watering, doesn’t mean giving up watering. The key to any xeriscape is proper water management. Drip irrigation and spray heads should be used where necessary.
A few trees that tolerate dry soils are Amur maple, lacebark elm and goldenrain tree. Shrubs include flowering quince, juniper and viburnum. Herbaceous plants include hosta, sedum, gaillardia and verbena. Be sure, as for any plant, that the soil drains well. Then water deeply, but only when necessary.
Lerner is author of “Anyone Can Landscape.” Contact him through his Web site, www.gardenlerner.com.
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