At a time of year when winter tomatoes are but a plastic stand-in of their summer selves and the soaring price of lettuce is an inverse measurement of its declining quality, there remain quite a few culinary bright spots.
Indeed, tucked in among the bins of winter-ravaged we-shouldn’t-be-here-but-shoppers-demand-us-whether-we-taste-good-or-not vegetables, are the veggies that sing their sweetest song in the worst kind of weather.
Broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, cabbage, parsnips, turnips, carrots and celery are a few of these winter offerings.
This is their season, the months when the sheer freshness of their characters radiate from within, establishing a fundamental fact: When vegetables are served in their prime they are much more likely to assume a central role on the dinner plate, rather than being banished beneath a napkin
And then there’s the leek. The beautiful leek!
We’re lucky to live in a place where these wonderful alliums that can grow to the diameter of a logger’s wrist are so tender and lovely; where they have a very short drive from field to kitchen.
Through the ages, leeks have been associated with cold-weather recipes: the simmering stews, hearty soups and savory pies. Like other alliums such as yellow onions and garlic, all it takes to tame the fiery flavor of leeks is a little bit of heat and time – two commodities that are in plentiful supply in most winter kitchens.
Winter leeks – the ones you’re encountering right now in the produce aisles – were planted in May, and can be harvested by September. But if left in the field, they’ll continue to grow into November.
Once they’ve reached maturity, leeks will not get any bigger, and store nicely right where they are – in the ground. Growers continue to harvest the crop as needed, until the plants go to seed the following May.
Nippy weather is one thing, but one would think that surviving the freezing temperatures generally associated with winter might be beyond even the heartiest leek. However, these plucky bulbs are rarely affected by a big freeze. The upper leaves may be burned, but the plants won’t die.
Like all other members of the allium family, leek varieties abound. In the raw state, their characteristics can range in flavor from heavy, rich and bitter to light and slightly sweet. For cooking purposes, however, they can be used interchangeably since the flavors aren’t quite as pronounced once heat has been applied.
Harvesting winter leeks is no easy task. The ground is cold and hard; and even the pros can’t dig up more than three or four dozen an hour. Once the leeks are brought in from the field, every leek has to be cleaned thoroughly of dirt, with all traces of yellowed, frost-bitten leaves removed. Because all of this work adds up to higher prices at the cash register, it’s important to select the best leeks money can buy. Look for straight, cylindrical stalks with clean bases. Avoid leeks with dried-out leaves – a sure sign they aren’t very fresh.
As the season heads into spring, be wary of leeks that are bulbous at the root end or that have a long, pencil-thin stalk shooting up out of the center of the otherwise flat leaves. Either situation is the result of harvesting after the plants have gotten too far along in their second spurt of growth. Such leeks will tend to be woody, with less flavor.
Preparation of leeks: Wash the leeks thoroughly and cut off the roots and about 1/2-inch of the base. Then slice each leek once from the green end almost down through the base. Fan the two sections apart and pass the leek through running water to remove all of the grit that has accumulated. The most edible portions of the leek are the white and pale green sections. The dark green leaves are rather tough, even after a lot of cooking. So if you plan to use that portion, it’s best to mince very small. On the other hand, the dark green leaves make a great addition to homemade broth; just throw them into the pot along with the rest of your vegetable trimmings.
Leek and potato soup with Swiss cheese
4cups chopped leeks (about 2 pounds whole leeks), use white and pale green portion
1medium-sized yellow onion, chopped
2tablespoons butter
4medium-sized potatoes (russet or Yukon Gold variety), peeled and chopped
4cups chicken broth
1 1/2cups half &half
Salt and white pepper to taste
1cup grated Swiss cheese
1cup grated sharp cheddar cheese
In a large pot, saute the leeks and onion in butter for 3 minutes, or until softened. Add potatoes and broth, and cover; simmer for 15 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Place mixture in blender or food processor, small batches at a time, and blend until smooth. Return to pot, stir in cream and bring mixture almost to a boil. Add the grated cheeses, stirring gently as the shreds melt. Makes about 6 servings.
* n n
This is one of my favorite mashed potato combinations. The leeks gives the mild, creamy potatoes a strong boost of onion flavor and lovely green color, while the basil kicks in with a surprising depth of flavor.
Mashed potatoes with basil and leeks
1 1/2pound russet potatoes (about 5 medium), peeled
2cups finely chopped leeks (use the white and pale green portions), about 2 large leeks
2tablespoons olive oil
1/4cup chopped fresh basil leaves
About 1/4 to 1/3 cup butter
About 1/2 cup milk, half &half, or heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cut the potatoes into quarters, then place them in a large saucepan with enough salted water to just cover them by about 1/2 inch. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, reduce to low, cover, and cook until the potatoes are soft, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, saute the leeks and basil in the olive oil over medium-low heat until the leeks are very soft, about 12 to 15 minutes. Add the desired amount of butter to the leek mixture and the 1/2 cup of milk (or half &half, or heavy cream). Bring this mixture to a simmer then remove from the heat and set aside.
When the potatoes are tender, drain well then mash into a puree. Stir in the leek and cream mixture, then adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, adding additional cream or milk to reach the desired consistency. Makes about six servings.
* n n
A traditional New England recipe, with a few modifications
Potato, leek and parsnip chowder
4slices bacon, diced
2cups sliced leeks (use the white and pale green portions; cut 1/4-inch thick rings), about 2 large leeks
1pound parsnips,
3/4pound potatoes (2 medium-sized russets)
4cups chicken broth
1/2teaspoon salt
2cups half &half (or milk, or a desired ratio of milk to half &half)
Freshly ground pepper
2tablespoons butter as garnish, if desired
In large, heavy-bottomed pot, saute the bacon until crisp over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and remove bacon and all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease. Reserve bacon for later. Add leeks and saute for several minutes to soften.
Meanwhile, peel parsnips and potatoes and coarsely cut into approximately 1/2-inch dice. Add the potatoes and parsnips to the leeks, along with the chicken broth and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the cream or milk, the reserved bacon (crumbled), and heat through. Adjust seasonings, adding salt and pepper to taste. Soup may be prepared up to 48 hours ahead. Just before serving, garnish each serving with a thin pat of butter if desired. Makes about four servings.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
