Nothing chases away the chill of a wintry night better than sipping a fine cognac before a roaring fire or if need be, a toasty electric heater. Unlike other spirits, which are made from grain or fruit, cognac is distilled from grapes and seems to embody the essence of wine.
Cognac is also a superb mixer. Although some might consider putting a top-quality cognac into a cocktail akin to putting 7-Up in Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, I must respectfully disagree. So-called “long drinks” (cognac mixed with water, tonic, seltzer, ginger ale or on the rocks) are an old tradition in France’s Cognac region and are quite enjoyable.
Rather than buy the lowest grade of cognac, my suggestion is to invest in a better cognac and drink it neat, but not hesitate to use it in your favorite cocktail. (Cognacs have their own grading system; see “Terms Defined” box.) For as little as $35 to $40, which is only about $10 more than the price of a typical VS, Frapin and Hine, two quality-conscious smaller houses, offer VSOP cognacs that are worlds apart not only from the typical VS, but also from most other houses’ VSOP. If your budget allows, going even higher will deliver more flavor.
| ABOUT COGNAC Most cognac is graded by age. However, some top producers do not use the official grades on their labels because they consider the minimum standards for the grades too lenient. VS: Stands for “very special,” but really isn’t, as it has to be aged only 21/2 years and it tastes raw and woody. The lowest grade of cognac and by far the biggest seller because it is cheaper. Suitable for mixing. VSOP: “Very superior old pale,” must be aged at least 41/2 years. The lightest and freshest-tasting cognac. Can be enjoyed neat or mixed. XO: “Extra old,” must be aged at least 61/2 years. Better XOs are usually much older. For armchair sipping or luxury cocktails. Other cognac terms: Long Drinks: The term in the Cognac region for mixed drinks made from cognac mixed with water, tonic, seltzer or ginger ale or served on the rocks. Neat: Straight, or with a splash of water. Borderies; Grand Champagne; Petit Champagne: Cognac’s best growing areas. Cognac from Borderies is known for the aroma of violets and spice. Grand Champagne and Petit Champagne cognacs are the most powerful. “Champagne” is unrelated to the region where sparkling wine is made. Brandy: An alcohol spirit distilled from fruit, usually from grapes. Only brandy distilled in the Cognac region of France may be called cognac. Eau-de-Vie: Clear brandy distilled from grapes. Ben Giliberti |
My top recommendation, Martell Cordon Bleu ($70 to $90), is great to sip neat, yet its flavors are so distinctive that it shines through in cocktails. The key to Cordon Bleu is the use of eau-de-vie (clear brandy distilled from grapes) from a region of Cognac called Borderies. Edouard Martell must have thought twice about using Borderies when he created Cordon Bleu in 1912. Almost all other top cognacs use grapes from the Grand Champagne and Petit Champagne regions of Cognac, which are accorded great prestige. Though Borderies lacks the power of the Champagnes, it has an exotic spicy, floral note that is discernible even when Cordon Bleu is used in a mixed drink. Martell XO Supreme also uses a good deal of Borderies in the blend. Because it is aged longer than Cordon Bleu, Martell XO Supreme has more power and concentration and somehow seems a bit more serious than Cordon Bleu. By any standard, however, both Cordon Bleu and XO Supreme rank among the best cognacs.
Frapin Chateau Fontpinot ($75 to $90) is especially appealing to me because it is the most winelike of the great cognacs. This XO level bottling is a genuine rarity. Like a great Bordeaux, it is chateau-bottled, which means that it is made exclusively from grapes grown on the vineyards surrounding the handsome chateau, and it is distilled and bottled on the estate. Chateau Fontpinot somehow manages to convey the seriousness of purpose expected of an XO with the wonderfully grapy freshness of a crisp white wine. Frapin VIP XO ($120 to $145) offers additional power and concentration with more nuances of age. However, for the same $120 or so, I’d sooner add a bottle of the lovely Frapin VSOP ($45) to the Chateau Fontpinot in my shopping cart and come home with two great bottles of cognac.
The cleverly named Pierre Ferrand Selection des Anges ($85 to $95) gets my vote as the most nearly perfect cognac.
Selection des Anges (“Angels’ Share”) is a lyrical term for the cognac that evaporates during barrel aging. Pierre Ferrand seems to recapture this ethereal presence in Selection des Anges, which lingers majestically on the palate after each sip.
Cigar lovers will enjoy Pierre Ferrand Cigar Blend, Reserve Havana, a hearty blend formulated to complement cigars. Pierre Ferrand also offers a series of single district cognacs under the Gabriel and Andreau brand. My favorite, the Gabriel and Andreau Borderies ($50), offers the undiluted floral and spicy Borderies style found in the Martell Cordon Bleu.
Delamain Pale and Dry ($70 to $85) epitomizes the delicate, understated style favored in England, where Delamain reigns supreme in the tony eating clubs of London. Its bouquet of vanilla and almonds is sensational. Delamain also makes a fuller-bodied and more traditionally styled cognac called Vespers ($120), which is a better choice as a luxury cocktail mixer due to its more powerful flavors.
The remarkable Hine XO Antique ($90 to $120) combines notes of new leather and almonds with a hint of rancio (damp earth) reminiscent of a great solera sherry. This exquisite cognac reflects the artistry of master blender Bernard Hine, who has blended the cognac made on his family estate for several decades. If you need some convincing before dropping a C-note on the Hine Antique, try a bottle of Hine Rare VSOP for about $38. It’s blended by Hine in the same style as Antique and, considering its price, is even more amazing.
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