Here’s my first tip of the year: When a recipe doesn’t turn out the way you think it’s supposed to, never admit failure. Rename it.
Take the frittata for instance. There’s no doubt in my mind that the first Italian-style omelet was the accidental creation of a Sicilian mama who had to leave the stove midway through preparations for scrambled eggs to attend to her crying infant.
Upon returning to the stove, she discovered that the eggs were set and the various chunks of leftover vegetables she’d thrown in along with the eggs were cemented into place.
Being the wise cook that she was – and unwilling to admit failure in the scrambled egg department – she deemed herself a culinary genius for discovering a simple egg and vegetable pie. It was served to the family in generous wedges, they oohed and ahhed, and the frittata was on its way to the culinary hall of fame.
At least that’s my theory.
What is totally true is the fact that frittatas have enjoyed popularity among Italians for eons. Depending on whim and time of day, cooks have been serving these lovely, golden omelets for light lunches or supers, as an antipasto, or even tucked between two slices of a hearty Italian bread or foccacia for sandwiches.
If you want to do a bit of free-wheeling in the frittata genre, figure on starting with six to eight eggs for four people, depending on the extravagance-level of your filling.
Pan size can vary, but using the six to eight egg scenario, a 10- to 12-inch frying pan will render a medium-thick frittata. Just keep in mind that the size of the pan does determine the ultimate thickness, so if you want a great, fat frittata, opt for the smaller pan and larger number of eggs.
I’ve also found that a sturdy nonstick frying pan is a great help, particularly for folks just getting the hang of frittata construction.
Real pros are known to use a well seasoned wrought iron skillet.
Which leads us into technique. Frittatas differ from a classic French omelet in that the eggs are not folded over a filling. An omelet is meant to be eaten while still slightly runny.
Frittata “fillings” are incorporated throughout the eggs and suspended into place as the eggs set.
When the frittata has cooked through from the bottom, some cooks like to slip it out onto a warm platter or baking sheet, add some additional butter to the pan, then flip the omelet back in to cook the second side. However, it’s also completely legal to simply brown the top side under the broiler, which requires less skill and less fat.
If you go the oven-browning route, make sure you wrap your skillet handle with aluminum foil if it isn’t oven-proof.
Let your imagination be your guide when determining what ingredients to use for your filling. The frittata is a blank canvas, and offers a superb opportunity to use leftovers such as boiled, braised or roasted vegetables and meats.
Even pasta – with or without sauce – and rice are appropriate additions, as are shellfish and chunks of sausage and meatballs.
Roasted potato tomato frittata
About 1/2 pound russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
Scant 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped
2cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
6eggs
1/4pound mozzarella cheese, grated
1/3cup fresh chopped basil
1cup chopped tomatoes
Up to several days before making the frittata, roast the potatoes: In a roasting pan, toss together the potatoes with the rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper to taste, and about 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Roast in a 450 degree oven until tender, about 45 to 55 minutes. Let cool to room temperature before proceeding with the recipe (if preparing ahead, refrigerate and bring to room temperature when ready to proceed with the recipe).
Using a fork, beat the eggs with a bit of salt and pepper, just until the whites and yolks are blended; do not beat them so long that they foam. Add the cheese, basil, tomatoes, and roasted potato mixture.
In a 9- or 10-inch nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of of the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough so that a drip of water will sizzle in the pan, pour in the egg mixture, and immediately reduce the heat to medium. As soon as the eggs are in the pan, begin to swirl them with the flat side of the fork, continually breaking the bottom to allow the uncooked egg to run through. At the same time, shake the pan to keep the eggs from sticking on the bottom. When the eggs begin to form large curds on top, pat them into a flat, round shape with the fork and leave them until they are softly set but still moist on the top. Check the bottom color by picking up a corner and looking; you want it to be light brown.
When it is, place a serving-size plate or flat cookie sheet over the pan, and reverse the frittata onto it. Slide the frittata back into the pan to brown the second side – a minute at the most. Slide onto serving plate or cutting board and cut into wedges.
Makes about 4 servings.
Adapted from “Make It Italian,” by Nancy Verde Barr
Spinach and onion frittata
2pounds fresh spinach, thoroughly washed
1yellow onion, thinly sliced
3tablespoons butter
8eggs
1cup grated Jarlsberg or Swiss cheese
1/2cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2teaspoon salt
1/4teaspoon ground nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
Trim away the tough stems from the spinach, drop in large pot of rapidly boiling water and blanch for 1 minute; drain well, then plunge the spinach into cold water to stop the cooking process and set the color. Lift the spinach from the water and squeeze thoroughly to remove all the liquid you possibly can. Place the squeezed clumps of spinach on a chopping board and coarsely chop.
Saute the onion in 1 tablespoon of the butter until soft and golden. Add the spinach, stirring to separate the leaves, and saute for about 3 minutes; remove from heat and let the spinach cool. In a bowl, beat the eggs lightly, then add the cooled spinach mixture, cheeses, salt, nutmeg and pepper.
In a 9- or 10-inch nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot enough so that a drip of water will sizzle in the pan, pour in the eggs, and immediately reduce the heat to medium. As soon as the eggs are in the pan, begin to swirl them with the flat side of the fork, continually breaking the bottom to allow the uncooked egg to run through.
At the same time, shake the pan to keep the eggs from sticking on the bottom. When the eggs begin to form large curds on top, pat them into a flat, round shape with the fork and leave them until they are softly set but still moist on the top. Check the bottom color by picking up a corner and looking; you want it to be light brown. When it is, place a serving-size plate or flat cookie sheet over the pan, and reverse the frittata onto it.
Slide the frittata back into the pan to brown the second side – a minute at the most. Slide onto serving plate or cutting board and cut into wedges.
Makes about 4 servings.
Broccoli frittata
2tablespoons olive oil
1tablespoon butter
1medium yellow onion, chopped
1clove garlic, minced
1/4teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
1/4teaspoon dried basil, crumbled
1/2cup chopped Black Forest ham (or other good-quality ham)
2cups coarsely chopped broccoli florets
20strands of cooked spaghetti, coarsely chopped (leftover spaghetti is fine)
6eggs
1/2cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2teaspoon crushed dried hot red pepper
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and the 1 tablespoon of butter in a 9- or 10-inch nonstick or well seasoned cast iron skillet. Add the onion and saute over medium heat until soft and golden. Add the garlic and ham; cook for 3 minutes. Stir in the broccoli florets and spaghetti; toss well to coat the mixture with the other ingredients and cook very briefly, about 20 seconds. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool.
Lightly bet the eggs in a large bowl. Add the cooled broccoli mixture and all but 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese.
Return the skillet to the burner. Heat the remaining 1 of oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot enough so that a drip of water will sizzle in the pan, pour in the egg and broccoli mixture, and immediately reduce the heat to medium. As soon as the eggs are in the pan, begin to swirl them with the flat side of the fork, continually breaking the bottom to allow the uncooked egg to run through. At the same time, shake the pan to keep the eggs from sticking on the bottom.
When the eggs begin to form large curds on top, pat them into a flat, round shape with the fork and leave them until they are softly set but still moist on the top. Check the bottom color by picking up a corner and looking; you want it to be light brown. When it is, place a serving-size plate or flat cookie sheet over the pan, and reverse the frittata onto it.
Slide the frittata back into the pan to brown the second side – a minute at the most. Sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan cheese and the crushed dried hot red pepper. Slide onto serving plate or cutting board and cut into wedges.
Makes 4 servings.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can reach her at janrd@proaxis.com.
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