From Washington’s southeast corner of Walla Walla to the orchards and truck farms throughout the Yakima Valley and points West, the remarkable combinations of climate, topography and geology make possible a Pacific Northwest harvest that is nothing less than a nonstop cornucopia.
In a good year, one can move through the season — fruit by fruit, vegetable by vegetable — taking time to appreciate each and every one. But this year, that nonstop cornucopia is beyond good. As far back as last March, local rhubarb made it to market weeks ahead of schedule, followed by early asparagus, early peas and (hip-hip-hooray!) early strawberries.
Of course, for me, it’s a time when my appetite has a special hankering for fruit. After all, fresh and sun-ripened Pacific Northwest fruit that’s been bred more for flavor than travel is a dear commodity.
And it arrives at a time when my body is craving lighter offerings from the kitchen. A time when the morning pick-me-up is a lovely little dish of berries with just a splash of cream; when freshly frozen blueberries make a delightful snack; when the perfect ending to the evening’s grilled supper is a tiny scoop of ice cream with a sprinkling of juicy Marionberries oozing down its side.
For a thorough rundown of what’s available (and when) in your area, go to the Washington State Farmers Markets Web site at www.wafarmersmarkets.com. The site also will link you to most of the regional markets’ Web sites throughout the state so if you’re on the road this summer, you might be able to add a market visit to your itinerary.
Meanwhile, here’s the short list of available and soon-to-be-available regionally grown fruits, with some simple ways to celebrate their arrival:
Blackberries: coming on in July and August
Currants, gooseberries: available now.
Cherries, blueberries: available now and will run through July (cherries) and September (blueberries).
Figs: arrive in July and August.
Marionberries: starting to arrive and will hang on into July
Melons: most plentiful in July and August.
Nectarines, peaches: are July and August
Pears (Bartlett): are an August treat, with different varieties coming on into late fall.
Plums: July and August.
Raspberries: through July.
Strawberries: through July.
Berries Romanoff
2cups Marionberries, or other caneberry, such as blackberries, Loganberries or raspberries
Sugar to taste
2cups low-fat or no-fat vanilla ice cream, softened
6tablespoons orange-flavored liquor (such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau)
1cup heavy cream, whipped
Whole berries for garnish
Gently smash the berries with a potato masher or back of spoon, leaving about one-third of the berries whole. Sprinkle with granulated sugar to taste. Place the ice cream in a large bowl; stir to soften and smooth out the ice cream. Reserve one cup of the berries and stir the rest into the softened ice cream, along with the liqueur. Gently fold in the whipped cream. Quickly divide the reserved cup of berries among 4 dessert glasses (clear glass is the most elegant because you will be able to see the layers). Spoon the cream mixture into the glasses, top each serving with one or more whole berries and serve.
Serves 4.
This is a wonderful way to jazz up a simple ice cream dessert!
Brown sugared and roasted apricots and raspberries
3-4ripe apricots
1pint fresh raspberries (or other seasonal berries, such as Marionberries or blueberries)
2tablespoons cassis (a black currant liqueur), or other liqueur, such as Grand Marnier
2tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4cup packed light brown sugar
Vanilla ice cream
Halve the apricots to remove the seeds, then slice. Toss the apricots and raspberries with the liqueur, and the granulated sugar. Scrape the mixture into a small baking dish (or individual gratin dishes). Sprinkle with the brown sugar.
Preheat the broiler. Broil the fruit mixture for 2 to 5 minutes or just until the brown sugar melts. Serve immediately with ice cream.
Alternatives: When local peaches are in season, substitute the apricots (or add them to the mixture); use fresh pineapple slices; use pitted sweet cherries, and instead of broiling, bake them in a 400 degree-oven until softened and the brown sugar has melted, stirring once to coat the cherries (they get slightly plump and juicy in the oven).
Makes 4 servings.
Clafoutis is a simple dessert, a rustic puddinglike offering that originated in Limousin, in the center of France
Cherry-berry clafoutis
4tablespoons butter
1teaspoon vanilla extract
3large eggs
1cup half &half
3/4cup granulated sugar
1/2cup flour
2tablespoons dry sherry, or brandy, or orange juice
1/4teaspoon salt
1pint of pitted sweet cherries (such as Bing, Van, Lambert or Rainier)
1pint of fresh berries (such as raspberries, Marionberries or blueberries)
2tablespoons brown sugar
Vanilla ice cream (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease an 8-inch round or square cake pan. Melt the butter over medium heat and gently cook until it turns golden brown. Remove from heat and whisk in the vanilla. Let cool.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, granulated sugar, flour, sherry (or brandy, or orange juice), salt and cooled butter. Layer the cherries and berries in the pan. Sprinkle and lightly toss them with the brown sugar. Pour the prepared batter over the fruit and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until puffed and lightly browned. Let cool slightly. Serve warm, with vanilla ice cream, if desired.
Recipe from “Wildwood, Cooking from the Source in the Pacific Northwest,” by Cory Schreiber.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com, or obtain additional recipes and food tips on her blog at www.janrd.com.
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