T here’s something special about a picnic.
It’s something even the finest restaurant can’t match, short of importing ants, dappled sunlight, twittering birds and a refreshing breeze.
Yes sir, put me in the great outdoors, simple fare and a bottle of wine in my basket and my sweetie by my side, and I’m in heaven.
It seems that in the open air, our senses are easily tantalized by less-complicated things. So take a cue from nature: Unless you think bears and deer look better in bow-ties, keep your picnic offerings basic.
My favorite combination is hearty whole-grain bread and a richly flavored Greek salad.
The ideal Greek salad, by my standards, has only seven elements: cucumbers, tomatoes, sweet bell peppers, red onions, feta cheese, olives and a delicately seasoned olive oil dressing.
Of course, each of these components should be chosen with care, because each and every one contributes in such a grand way to the total experience. The vegetables, for example, should be local in origin, which means they will be fresh and flavorful.
The challenge comes in finding a decent feta cheese. It helps to know that this famous Greek product is a semisoft, highly salted white cheese that is pickled in brine.
The best eating experience comes with a very fresh batch, while it’s still soft and just a bit crumbly. Once it’s lingered in the deli case too long, the moisture evaporates, and it becomes a little too firm and a lot more pungent.
Armed with such knowledge doesn’t always help you find the right stuff, however, since quality and styles vary from maker to maker, but seeking out the one you like can be an interesting project.
A thoughtfully prepared feta should have a pungent-yet-pleasing aroma. If you detect any sour or barnyard odors, or a bitter or soapy taste, move on.
Generally speaking, feta made from sheep’s milk has a more complex range of flavors than feta made from goat’s milk and is also less tart. Cow’s-milk feta is milder (too mild for traditionalists) with a slightly grainy texture. But for the uninitiated, this might be the style to train your palate on before moving on to the more exuberant offerings.
Having found a decent feta, you can begin your search for the right olives. The best place to start is in Greek or Middle Eastern stores where they are available in bulk. Don’t be shy about asking for a taste before you buy, because it’s expected.
Of the olive varieties you’re likely to encounter, the one you’re looking for is what some consider the ultimate Greek olive, the Kalamata. This almond-shaped, dark purple olive, comes from the Messenia province. Its flavor should be rich but not bitter, and the texture firm, not mushy.
Finally, consider the dressing. It must be made from fine olive oil, fresh lemon juice, and just a hint of fresh herbs. The one that follows is particularly exquisite, yet simple.
Greek country salad
About 3/4 pound feta cheese
2cucumbers, peeled and sliced or chunked (if local cucumbers are not available, consider using an English cucumber)
2medium-size ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into chunks or wedges
1sweet green bell pepper, cored and sliced into strips or rings
1medium red onion, peeled, thinly sliced and separated into rings
About 1 1/2 cups of Kalamata olives
Greek salad dressing (recipe follows)
Assemble all of the ingredients except the dressing. When ready to serve, place the vegetables and cheese in a large, shallow bowl or on a platter. Drizzle on enough dressing to coat the salad ingredients; toss gently and serve.
Note: I prefer not adding the dressing until just before serving so that all of the ingredients maintain their own special flavor.
Makes four to six servings.
Greek salad dressing
2tablespoons double strength canned chicken broth
2tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2tablespoons red wine vinegar
1teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1/2cup regular olive oil
1/2cup extra-virgin olive oil
1teaspoon minced fresh thyme
Scant teaspoon minced fresh oregano
1/4teaspoon minced or pressed fresh garlic
3/4teaspoon salt
Dash of white pepper
Whisk together the chicken broth, lemon juice, and vinegars. Continue whisking while you slowly add the olive oils, drop by drop through the first half cup, and then in a thin, steady stream so that the dressing can thicken slightly. Whisk in the herbs, garlic, salt and pepper. Adjust seasonings. Store any unused dressing in the refrigerator and bring to room temperature before using.
Makes about 11/3 cups.
Adapted from “The Periyali Cookbook,” by Holly Garrison, with Nicola Kotsoni and Steve Tzolis
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
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