There’s still a lot of drama associated with bringing the right food in contact with “the correct” wine.
Thankfully, we’ve pretty much ditched the idea of red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat. Nowadays, wine folk are more likely to consider cooking style, sauces and other seasonings before contemplating which wine to pull from the rack.
But that still leaves plenty of room for insecurities if you don’t have a basic understanding of what any given wine represents along the flavor continuum.
One of the most basic questions to ask yourself (or that really helpful wine professional at the wine store) at the beginning of your pairing quest is: Which wine is going to improve the dining experience?
For that “big” pinot noir, for example, anything with an earthy, mushroomy personality will be smashing.
The shy pinot gris would be happy in the company of delicately prepared shrimp or crab.
And the lovely spice and aromatic-exotic character of the gewurztraminer or riesling would be a delight in the presence of an exotic curry or Asian-themed offering, be it dim sum or chicken satay.
Plus, the slight sweetness in the gewurztraminer or riesling (that’s “off dry” in wine-speak) will balance the peppery-spicy quality in the food.
So as you can see, if you know the flavors and textures of the food you’ll be serving, then you can get pretty darn close in your speculation — even when you take into consideration the variations any given wine exhibits from winery to winery.
But since there really are no hard-and-fast rules on the subject, it still gets down to practice and observation.
One basic technique I enjoy in my sampling exercises is to analyze a sip of wine after I’ve had a bite of the food. Does the wine taste better or worse after that bite of food?
It’s really that simple. Either the food enhances the wine-drinking experience or it undermines it.
One last bit of helpfulness I can share in this limited space is to encourage you to visit winery Web sites.
Many offer recipes designed to complement their wines. One of my favorite food-pairing sources is Cakebread cellars (www. cakebread.com).
Even though they’re producing Napa Valley wines, you’ll learn a lot just by reading through food pairings the winery recommends.
More regionally, consider checking out some of your Washington winery Web sites, such as Chateau St. Michelle (www.ste-michelle.com), Columbia Winery (www.columbiawinery.com), and Columbia Crest Winery (www.columbia-crest.com).
To plan a tour around your area, go to www.winesnw.com and click on the Pacific Northwest region you want to visit. You’ll find links to most of the region’s wineries.
If you want to bring along some nibbles to heighten that experience, consider some of the wine-friendly options I’m sharing.
FRICO
2cups coarsely grated Parmesan cheese (about 6 1/2 ounces)
2 1/2tablespoons all-purpose flour
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375 degree. Oil 2 nonstick baking sheets.
In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the cheese and flour. Season generously with pepper. Place generous tablespoonfuls of the mixture 1/2-inch apart on the baking sheets. Flatten each frico into 2-inch rounds. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until fragrant and golden brown.
Place the chips on a rack and let cool to room temperature. May be served immediately or stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days, or frozen for up to 2 weeks.
The wine: These crisp little mouthfuls would be delightful with a wide range of local wines, from the fruity-earthy pinot noirs, syrahs and merlots, to the Dijon-cloned chardonnays.
Makes 24 chips.
Recipe from “Cheese Hors D’Oeuvres,” by Hallie Harron
MINI CHEESE PALMIERS
1sheet frozen puff pastry dough, thawed
1large egg, beaten
1cup shredded Gruyere (or Monterey Jack) cheese
Unroll the pastry sheet and cut it in half lengthwise (no need to roll it out). Working with one piece at a time, brush the surface edges with the egg, forming a 1-inch border. Scatter half the cheese over the top of the pastry, avoiding the egg-brushed border.
Fold in the long sides to meet in the middle of the sheet. With the long side still toward you, fold the top and bottom of the pastry sheet to meet again in the center. Fold the top half over the bottom. Turn the roll over and pinch the ends together to seal. Repeat with the remaining pastry sheet and cheese. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and freeze for 30 minutes or up to 1 month.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil or spray 2 baking sheets.
If the roll has frozen solid, let it thaw for 15 minutes before slicing. Cut each roll into 1/4-inch thick slices and place cut side down 1/2-inch apart on the baking sheets. Bake for 15 minutes, or until golden. Let cool on rack and serve at room temperature.
May be prepared up to 24 hours ahead.
Makes 36 Palmiers.
The wine: This would be a particularly delightful nibble when in the company of a somewhat toasty pinot blanc or chardonnay, but would truly work for an even wider range of wines, including pinot gris, syrah and pinot noir.
For a zestier palmier: substitute a rich Gorgonzola or Oregon blue for the gruyere.
Recipe from “Cheese Hors D’Oeuvres,” by Hallie Harron
RED ONION AND BLUE CHEESE SPREAD
1/2cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2cup chopped red onion
1/2cup chopped toasted hazelnuts
1/4cup pitted and coarsely chopped kalamata olives
1large clove garlic, minced
3/4cup crumbled blue cheese
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1French bread baguette, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (optional: for extra flavor and crunch, the slices can be lightly toasted)
1bunch of sweet, local table grapes
In a small saucepan over medium heat, gently warm the olive oil with the onions, hazelnuts, olives, and garlic. Keep the mixture hot but not simmering, and cook until the onions are softened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and pour the mixture into a preheated Thermos.
When ready to serve, place the blue cheese in the center of an attractive platter, then pour the warm oil mixture over the cheese. Add freshly ground black pepper to taste. Arrange the baguette rounds and the grapes along side on a separate platter and serve with the spread.
The wine: Then pull a lovely bottle of a late harvest gewurztraminer or a fruity pinot noir or syrah.
MUSHROOM DUXELLES SPREAD
1/2cup butter
2tablespoons finely minced onion
2shallots, finely minced
1pound fresh mushrooms, finely minced (a food processor works well)
1/2teaspoon salt
1/4teaspoon white pepper
1/3cup port
Melt butter in a large skillet. Add onions and shallots and cook briefly over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and continue to saute, stirring frequently, until all of the liquid that is released from the mushrooms has evaporated (about 15 to 20 minutes). Once the mushrooms are darkened and dry, add the salt, pepper and port. Continue to cook until the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick again, about 15 more minutes. Adjust the seasonings.
Duxelles will keep refrigerated up to 3 weeks, or frozen for 3 months. Before using, you may want to reheat gently over low heat or in the microwave to soften.
Yields about 2 1/2 cups.
The wine: Its flavor is one of the most perfect compliments to the complex and earthy-yet-fruity character of a pinot noir.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.
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