ROGUE RIVER, Ore. — In the depths of the Rogue River canyon, there’s a sense of being swallowed by a place altogether separate from the outside world.
The mountains encase the valley in thousand-foot walls, and the river glides deep and green past wildlife, forest and a civilization of rustic lodges built beginning in the 1930s.
The wilderness stretch of the Rogue River is among Oregon’s most famous attractions, but has always been the dominion of rafting and fishing.
Yet during the past decade, hiking and backpacking have become increasingly popular on a 40-mile trail built more than a century ago for gold miners’ pack mules.
Today, the lure of the Rogue River Trail between Grave Creek (near Grants Pass) and Foster Bar (near Gold Beach) is its ability to provide options found few places in North America.
The network of lodges gives weary backpackers the chance to spend nights in rustic splendor, while local outfitters offer trips that turn a challenging hike into a luxurious experience of wine and craft beers.
No matter how you experience the Rogue River Trail — typically hiked May, June, September and October — whether as part of a guided trip or doing it yourself, the key is just getting started.
More than anything, it’s an adventure: rattlesnakes and black bears, waterfalls and deep canyons, long days hiking and beachside camping.
Here’s how to do it in four days and three nights, two spent at campsites and one at Marial Lodge at the midpoint.
Settle two important factors ahead of time: Figure out a shuttle to get back to your car and reserve a spot at the lodge.
Day 1: Grave Creek Trailhead to Meadow Creek Campsite, 13.2 miles
The Rogue slices into the Siskiyou Mountains, throwing itself down a series of rapids while the trail tightropes the canyon face and descends into wilderness.
Among the small joys early on is the number of landmarks named for alcohol (who says miners drink a lot?): Rum Creek, Whiskey Creek and Booze Creek.
A campsite, where green pools collect below large oak trees, makes a perfect lunch break.
As evening drops yellow-orange hues into the canyon and our legs began contemplating rebellion, we reached Meadow Creek Campsite.
Day 2: Meadow Creek to Marial Lodge, 10.7 miles
The day’s travels begin in forested side canyons and along a river that spreads out blue and gold below the mountains.
Along the way is Zane Grey’s cabin at mile 17.2. Grey was a writer of rollicking western novels, but among his lesser-known books is “Rogue River Feud,” which begins with a beautiful ode to the river Grey so clearly adored.
A second historic landmark — the Rogue River Ranch — is an old farmstead converted into a museum at mile 22.7.
The site, once home to 100 residents in a small gold mining town, holds evidence of American Indian habitation from 9,000 years ago.
Finally, with legs turning to jelly, we arrive at Marial Lodge where a glorious dinner, hot shower and soft bed await.
Day 3: Marial Lodge to Tacoma Camp, 8.8 miles
This stretch of the trail is where the Rogue performs its most dramatic act, squeezing into the jet-black chasm of Mule Creek Canyon (mile 24), where rafters flail about in Coffeepot Rapids, and Stair Creek Falls drops in double-decker splendor.
Highlights include Inspiration Point (mile 25.2), Paradise Lodge (mile 27.4) and Solitude Bar (31.2) before reaching Tacoma Camp (33.2) where the best camps are.
We claim a gem of a spot between canyon walls and along a sandy beach with a deep-green swimming hole.
The night’s entertainment? Two black bears lumbering out of the forest, on the opposite side of the river, looking mildly perplexed.
Day 4: Tacoma Camp to Big Bend Trailhead, 7.8 miles
On the final day of a long backpacking trip, there’s an impulse to sprint toward the finish, but one final highlight remains at mile 35. Flora Dell Falls.
The falls drop 30 feet into a deep emerald pool to create one of Oregon’s great swimming holes.
In the final miles, the river exits the canyon, those thousand-foot walls drop into rolling hills and the sense of being swallowed by a place altogether separate from the outside world begins to fade.
Maps and more
Visit the U.S. Department of the Interior Bureau of Land Management website for Oregon, www.blm.gov/or, and search for Rogue River.
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