How to re-tile a countertop

Disconnect the water supply lines, the sink drain, and the gas or electric lines.

With all built-ins removed, use a hammer and a pry bar to get rid of the old countertop. Keep in mind that some countertops may be attached to the cabinet with screws from the underside.

Note: Be sure to wear protective clothing and eye goggles to avoid injury.

Begin the new installation by first measuring, cutting and installing a new plywood sub-top (known in the trades as the rough top). We use 3/4 inch exterior grade plywood. Mortar or mortar board lie on this plywood platform.

Pre-drill the holes using an 1/8-inch drill bit and then use 1 5/8-inch drywall screws to attach the plywood top to the cabinet at all edges, about 6 to 8 inches apart.

Next, use the manufacturer’s template that comes with the sink or appliance to mark its cutout size and location.

Use a jigsaw to make the actual cutout.

Finally, apply a layer of 15-pound building paper over the plywood top, securing it with a few staples.

The next step for a professional would be to add chicken wire and float out a bed of mortar. For the do-it-yourselfer, prefabricated cement backer board makes the job easier.

Measure the backer board to fit precisely over the plywood rough top. The backer board, which is 1/2-inch thick can be cut with a sharp razor knife or by using a circular saw with a masonry blade.

If you use the saw, be sure to wear a breathing mask since you will encounter an enormous cloud of dust.

Remove the scribed backer board and use a jigsaw to make the matching cutouts.

Secure the mortar board to the plywood substrate using 1-inch galvanized roofing nails or 1-inch bugle-head drywall screws.

Use the special mesh tape and joint compound sold with the backer board to finish the joints.

The nail or screw heads should also be dabbed with a bit of the joint compound. Allow everything to dry overnight.

Begin the tiling process by laying out the tile:

Irregular pieces should be marked and cut with a tile cutter, which can be rented for about $45 a day.

Lay the tile out with the appropriate-size rubber spacers and mark and cut each piece. Rubber tile spacers help to keep the joints aligned and uniform in width. Butt tiles together for thin joints.

The most challenging pieces to fit will be those that surround the openings for sinks and appliances. Tile nippers will make custom cuts far easier.

Once all of the pieces have been precut and removed from the work surface you’re ready to lay tile. Here’s what we do:

With a margin trowel or butter trowel, spread a small amount of mortar-adhesive onto the back side of a piece of tile.

Place the tile, starting with the trim pieces followed by the field tile, being sure to use spacers between each piece if desired.

Be careful to lay tiles in straight lines by sighting down the joint rows. The other trick is to make sure that tiles are evenly laid insuring that top will be as smooth as silk.

The tile splash can be applied directly to the wall by using a small amount of mortar with each piece. Allow the tile adhesive to set up for about 24 hours and then apply the grout.

If the joints are less than 1/8-inch, use unsanded grout. If 1/8 inch or larger, use sanded. Mix the grout according to the directions and apply it with a rubber grout float working in a diagonal direction.

Excess grout should be removed with a damp sponge.

Install a new self-rimming sink and your appliances. Reconnect the water supply lines and pipes or the gas line and wiring.

Apply an acrylic or silicone-based tile and grout sealer to the entire tile and grout surface after the grout has cured for a couple of weeks.

For tips from James and Morris Carey, visit their Web site at www.onthehouse.com or call the 24/7 listener hot line, 800-737-2474. The Careys are also on KRKO (1380-AM) from 6 to 10 a.m. every Saturday.