Ode to the Red Currant
Red currants are hot
But what red currants are not
Are those tiny dried fruits
Called for in scones, fruitcake and mincemeat
A lot.
For hundreds of years it was considered Greeces most treasured export. But its only connection to the lovely little berry that chefs on this side of the ocean are finally beginning to appreciate is that the Greek specialty grape inspired the naming of the berry. Fresh currants, after all, grow in grapelike bunches.
The countries that have the longest history of cooking with fresh currants include the Netherlands, Denmark, Russia, England, Holland and France.
Once brought to this continent in the early 1600s, it didnt take long for folks to discover that the plant was well-suited for the cooler climates, like the Pacific Northwest where the summers were relatively mild and the winters comfortably cold.
Another reason currants are more plentiful in the Pacific Northwest but less available elsewhere is because, like their cousin, the gooseberry, currants are host to a disease called white pine blister rust. So their cultivation and sale is curtailed in some states where the eastern white pine grows.
Fresh currants come in four basic colors red, black, white, and pink each with a distinct flavor. The red are the sweetest and used the most in cooking.
The pink and white varieties are milder, while the blacks character is far more potent and robust. In this area, the two varieties youll find easiest to obtain are the red and the black.
Because the currant contains an extremely high amount of pectin, its well-suited for canning. Particularly jelly, but also jam.
Availability of currants: Typically, from Mid-June through July, so now would be a great time to consider bringing them into your kitchen. Your best chances for locating them are the various farmers markets and specialty produce markets.
Selection and storage of currants: Choose firm, plump berries with a rich sheen.
Currants store very well; theyll stay firm and bright for about 2 weeks in the refrigerator, but youll notice a turning of color and softening of texture eventually as they continue to ripen. Once they have matured to this phase, theyll still be good for purees for another week.
Currants also freeze well. Simply arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet in the freezer until frozen. Then pack them into freezer bags.
There is a famous white currant preserve in France, from the town of Bar-Le-Duc, that features whole, seeded white currants suspended in a clear jelly made from the juice of the same fruit.
Traditionally, the seeds are removed with the tip of a goose quill. But dont worry, this is for historical note only. In the following recipe, no goose quill is required, and the seeds which are very tiny are left intact.
Red currant preserves
2quarts fresh red currants
1cup currant juice (you will need 2 cups fresh red currants; see note)
7cups sugar, divided
Wash eight half-pint or four pint jars. Keep hot until needed. Prepare lids as manufacturer directs.
Combine the currants and juice in a large non-aluminum pot. Stir in 4 cups sugar; cook 5 minutes. Let stand 12 hours or overnight in a cool place. Add remaining sugar. Bring slowly to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cook rapidly to just a degree or two below the jelling point (the jelling point is 220 degrees from sea level up to 1000 feet; 216 degrees at 2,000 feet; 214 degrees at 3,000 feet; 212 degrees at 4,000 feet; 211 degrees at 5,000 feet; 209 degrees at 6,000 feet; 207 degrees at 7,000 feet; 205 degrees at 8,000 feet), about 30 minutes.
As the mixture thickens, stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Remove from heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Skim foam if necessary.
Ladle the hot preserves into one hot jar at a time, leaving 1/4-inch head space. Wipe jar rim with a clean damp cloth. Attach lid. Fill and close remaining jars. Process in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes (15 minutes at 1,001 to 6,000 feet; 20 minutes above 6,000 feet). Makes about five half-pints.
Note on obtaining currant juice: To obtain about 1 cup of currant juice, combine 2 cups of whole, fresh currants with 1/4 cup of water in a non-aluminum pot. Cover, and simmer until the fruit is soft. Strain the mixture through a damp jelly bag.
Adapted from Ball Blue Book
Salad of summer greens, ham, Swiss cheese and red currants
1head romaine lettuce
1pint (firmly packed) baby arugula
1/4pound fresh mushrooms, sliced
1cup fresh red currants
1/2cup shredded Swiss cheese
1/4pound good-quality ham, julienne cut
1/4cup balsamic vinegar
1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil
2teaspoons Dijon mustard
1finely chopped clove of fresh garlic
Salt and pepper to taste
Thoroughly wash and dry the romaine and arugula and break into pieces. Combine the greens in a salad bowl with the mushrooms, red currants, Swiss cheese and the ham. When ready to serve, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper. Toss enough of the vinaigrette with the salad to evenly coat the ingredients. Serve at once.
Makes six servings
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com, or obtain additional recipes and food tips on her blog at www.janrd.com.
Talk to us
> Give us your news tips.
> Send us a letter to the editor.
> More Herald contact information.
