Something many us tend to forget is that every bathroom sink has two sets of controls. The faucet at the sink and the valves below it. If you are bothered by a dripping faucet, simply shut off the valves under the sink.
Sometimes these valves also are in need of repair. Thus, if the drip continues, tie a rag around the end of the faucet and let it hang with its end in the sink.
The drip will become a quiet flow of water running down the rag and into the drain. Make sure the end of the rag in the sink completely covers the drain. This will muffle drain noise.
This temporary measure might allow you a night’s sleep before the actual repair. Most of the time you can stop a faucet leak for less than a dollar and less than an hour.
The process requires the replacement of two washers: one at the top of the valve stem and one at the bottom of it. When a faucet is leaking from the spout, it indicates that the rubber gasket at the bottom of the valve stem needs replacement.
When the leak is from the handle, it means the gasket at the top of the valve stem needs to be replaced. In either case, both gaskets should be replaced. It is wise to replace both gaskets in both valves (hot and cold) even if only one is leaking.
For the sake of simplicity, we will describe the repair of one faucet, although both are repaired in the same fashion. Make sure the water is off before attempting a repair.
First, the faucet handle must be removed. Normally, the screw that holds the handle in place can be found either at the top of the handle or immediately below a cover that caps the top of the handle.
Caps usually indicate hot or cold, and can be pried loose with a knife blade or a small screwdriver. This should be done carefully as handle covers are usually made of soft metal or plastic and can be damaged.
Once the handle is removed, the valve and valve stem are exposed. The valve stem is connected to the valve body with a threaded nut or cap screw. Sometimes a larger nut exists that surrounds the valve at sink level.
Do not loosen this nut. It holds the valve in place and has nothing to do with stopping a leak. Hold the valve body with a pipe wrench or vise grip, and with a second wrench turn the nut at the top of the valve counter-clockwise. This will remove the valve stem from the valve and expose both gaskets.
At this point, remove the bottom gasket (usually with a Phillips screwdriver) and save the screw. With the bottom gasket off, slide the gasket at the top down the shaft or cut it away with a knife.
If you elect to use a knife, use caution. With the gaskets removed, clean the valve stem with scouring powder and pad to eliminate mineral salt buildup and corrosion.
Next, you will need replacement gaskets. There are two ways to find the right ones: 1) Before removing the gaskets from the valve stem, take it to the store for a matchup, or 2) Before starting your project, purchase a box of assorted gaskets (make sure there are two of each size in the box if you intend to work on both valves).
Even though you are installing new gaskets, it is wise to lubricate them before reinstalling the valve stem. The lubricant will help to keep them soft and reduce the chance for damage during reinstallation. A special rubber lubricant must be used.
Slide the top gasket into place, screw in the bottom gasket, apply the lubricant and reverse the removal process to return the faucet to normal operation. Be sure to check for leaks at the top of the valve stem before reinstalling the handles.
Caution: Do not over-tighten the nut at the top of the valve stem. Doing so can damage the gasket and make turning the handle difficult. The nut should be just tight enough to prevent a water leak. At first, a slightly loose adjustment is in order; then tighten as needed.
For tips from James and Morris Carey, visit www.onthehouse.com or call the 24/7 listener hot line, 800-737-2474, ext. 59. You can also enter to win one of a pair grand prizes totaling more than $25,000 in value. The Careys are also on KRKO (1380-AM) from 6 to 10 a.m. every Saturday.
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