Neah Bay worth the journey

  • By Jackson Holtz Herald Writer
  • Saturday, May 21, 2011 12:01am
  • Life

At the northwest corner of Washington, actually the northwest tip of the continental United States, is Neah Bay.

It is the end of the road. Literally.

And, over the past few years, Neah Bay has geared up to welcome visitors like never b

efore.

The town is a gateway to lush natural beauty, dramatic beaches on the rugged coastline and the rich cultural history of the Makah Indian Nation.

It’s the kind of place that makes a perfect weekend getaway to watch winter waves crash into the coast, or to enjoy the rich and abundant foliage in spring and summer.

From Snohomish County, take the ferry from Edmonds to Kingston, then drive just less than 150 miles west and north until there’s no more road left.

Leave extra time to take in the scenery and watch bald eagles fish, said Merideth Parker, the president of the Chamber of Commerce and a tribal member.

“We hope that everyone really enjoys their time in Neah Bay,” she said.

Nature abounds, offering excellent bird-watching, fishing and even whale watching during the spring and fall migrations.

From Cape Flattery, people can see sea lions sunning on a rock just off the coast. And there are more than 240 varieties of birds.

Two beaches near the town draw the most visitors.

Hobuck Beach is most accessible. Just south of Cape Flattery, the beach attracts surfers in the wintertime when huge swells pummel the coast.

The Hobuck Beach Resort offers small cabins, wave- and weather-watching.

A 2-mile hike brings you Washington’s famed Shi Shi beach with its jutting seastacks. Camping is allowed at the beach, but visitors may want to wait for summer to spend the night amid the driftwood.

Another option is to stroll the boardwalk from Lake Ozette to the Pacific Ocean.

Neah Bay also is a place to learn about native cultures. The Makah Cultural and Research Center holds artifacts from Ozette, an ancient whaling village that’s considered one of North America’s most-significant archaeological discoveries.

The village was inhabited in the early 18th century and destroyed — and preserved — by a mudslide. The site was excavated in the late ’60s.

The tribe’s traditions are reflected in the town’s welcome sign. The canoe, an important part of tribal life, is featured.

“Our idea is that all of us, we’re all pulling in the same canoe,” Parker said.

The Makah people have lived in Neah Bay for thousands of years, and the town remains the center of contemporary Makah life. The tradition of whaling still is important to the Makah. The last hunt approved by the U.S. government was in 1999. In 2007, five Makah men were arrested for whaling without a permit after they harpooned and shot a gray whale that later died.

Tribal members are proud to share their history and culture. A number of resident artists continue to practice the traditional art forms of weaving, basketry, carving and mask-making, as well as more contemporary jewelry-making and painting. Some works are in the museum, others are for sale at shops in town.

The town has grown in recent years and accommodates tourists at several motels, camping spots and restaurants. Don’t expect casinos or nightlife, Parker said. The quaint town shuts down by 8 p.m.

Linda’s Wood-Fired Kitchen, owned by Linda Colfax, offers local seafood cooked in the wood-fired oven. She also offers soups, pizza and delicious baked good.

Upstairs, she and her husband run the Apacalypto Motel. The rooms overlook Neah Bay and the Strait of Juan de Fuca with views of Vancouver Island.

Another good spot is Pat’s Place, which features tacos served on Indian fry bread and fresh baked pies. There’s also breakfast and lunch at Whaler’s Moon Deli.

Jackson Holtz: 425-339-3447; jholtz@heraldnet.com.

Visit Neah Bay

Neah Bay is a good weekend getaway from Snohomish County. It takes up to four hours to drive from Kingston, where the Edmonds ferry lands on the Kitsap Peninsula.

For more information or to book a trip, go to www.neahbaywa.com.

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