EVERETT — Along the tiny, twisting, smoke-filled and ancient streets of Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital, women stir pots of fragrant broth.
They sit on sidewalks and serve up bowls of pho, rice-noodle soup that is the nation’s staple.
In Vietnam, each cook makes either beef, chicken or duck soup and people typically eat the steaming bowls for breakfast or lunch while they sit street side on tiny, kindergarten-like plastic furniture.
During my visit to Hanoi two years ago, I squatted on a small chair and enjoyed a delicious bowl of chicken pho (pronounced like “fuh”).
It’s easier to skip the 17-hour flight and go to Pho To Liem in south Everett, where they serve a delicious array of pho and several other Vietnamese favorites that are cheap and fresh.
Instead of small, plastic furniture, this restaurant has about 16 tables. There’s no frills here, but it is smartly decorated and the Vietnamese words for coriander, onion, basil, lime, jalapeno and other pho ingredients are written along one wall.
Unlike many Asian languages, Vietnamese is written using Latin characters, which replaced Chinese symbols beginning in the 17th century.
But despite the fact that the two countries share a border, the food is far different than what Americans typically find in Chinese restaurants.
Starting with pho: the big bowl of soup is served with an overflowing plate of bean sprouts, basil leaves, lime wedges and jalapeno on the side — you choose what you want to add. The hot broth is full of rice noodles, onion, cilantro and nearly 30 different combinations of beef, seafood or chicken pho (prices range from $5.70 for a small to about $7.45 for a large).
At Pho To Liem, the menu helps the less adventuresome choose cuts of meat more easily appreciated by Western appetites, including eye of round, meatballs and brisket. The more adventuresome can try tripe and tendon.
The other day at lunch I had a combo of rare steak and meatballs in my pho. By the time I mixed in fresh herbs and added a big squeeze of lime, the thinly sliced rare meat had cooked through. It was tender, tasty and just chewy enough.
My friend ordered bun: Vietnamese rice noodles served with a grilled meat (she substituted chicken) and served in a big bowl with fresh lettuce, sprouts, cucumber, basil, pickled carrots and radish with a sweet-and-sour sauce ($6.95).
She really liked the blend of the slightly spicy chicken with the fresh, cool vegetables.
For starters, we ordered fresh rolls, which were shrimp and thinly sliced pork wrapped in rice papers with basil, rice noodles and shredded carrots ($3.50 for two). They came with a sweet peanut dipping sauce.
We also ordered barbecue pork ($4.25), sliced meat served with yellow mustard and ketchup. It was a bit disappointing. I’d stick with the Vietnamese egg rolls ($2.75) instead. I’ve had them here on a previous visit and they were served fresh, crispy and delicious.
Beverages include bubble tea, beer and super-strong coffee drinks blended with sweetened condensed milk. I like the Vietnamese lime soda, which is fresh lime juice blended with sugar and a splash of soda.
The service was friendly. Our waitress told us her husband is the cook and he used to own a restaurant in downtown Everett but moved to the strip mall along Evergreen Way after 9-11.
She invited us back to try the rice dishes, stir fries and chow meins.
With so many Vietnamese places popping up, Pho To Liem is a standout. Stop in on a cold winter night and warm up with a bowl of pho.
Jackson Holtz: 425-339-3437; jholtz@heraldnet.com.
Pho To Liem
209 E. Casino Road, Suite N, 425-355-0245
Specialty: Vietnamese
Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
Price range: Inexpensive
Reservations: Not necessary
Alcohol: Beer
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