Reader reaction spurs reconsideration

  • By Anna Poole / Herald Restaurant Critic
  • Thursday, July 28, 2005 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

EVERETT – When we first reviewed Mama Mia’s in January, the headline read “Look for the boot.” Since then, Herald readers have e-mailed me suggesting we return and possibly give this restaurant the boot.

4809 Evergreen Way, Everett; 425-259-2868

Specialty: Italian

Hours: lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Price range: moderate

Liquor: full bar

Smoking: not permitted

Vegetarian: selections in all menu categories

Reservations: not available

Disabled accessibility: easy access

Credit cards: Master Card, Visa

Readers complained about a lack of quality, quantity and service, including complaining to the chef, who reportedly heard the complaint with a “smug demeanor.”

Oh my.

My original review was complimentary but the e-mails made me wonder if we had visited Mama Mia’s on a “good” night. So, I asked my friend who accompanied me on our first visit to meet me for another dinner at Mama Mia’s, where house specials are marked by a boot.

When we arrived at the same time, we were instantly greeted and seated at a table under the sweeping mural that dominates the dining room. Since our visit, drawings by young customers using the butcher paper that tops the black tablecloths were hung. Like before, there were almost no empty tables. Couples, extended family and groups of friends filled the room. But almost everyone was waiting, which meant we arrived at about the same time. We watched carefully, and the food began to flow smoothly from kitchen to table.

Our server on our Thursday night visit was attentive without hovering or being absent when needed. My friend skipped her usual before-dinner cocktail, stating the weather was too hot, and chose iced tea. I delayed my drink order until I decided on my entree, which was that’s night special – veal in marsala sauce with buttered pasta and vegetables ($17.95). I added a glass of Italian wine from the Piedmont area ($7) and a dinner salad.

My dining companion selected the lasagne ($13.95), which is marked with a boot. With my dinner salad came bread, which we were never served on our first visit and were anxious to try, having heard good things about it. It was fresh and hot from the oven, and topped with cheese and fresh basil. It was one of the highlights of our dinner.

Other highlights included the broccoli (the vegetable of the day), my salad and dessert.

For different reasons we were disappointed. My friend found her lasagne to be way too salty, although it tasted fine to me. She indicated my al dente linguine was “tough,” while I thought it had too much butter. The big disappointment was my main dish. The veal was tough and too thick, and the coating was soggy instead of crispy. But the marsala sauce was tasty, as was my mixed greens salad.

For dessert, I ordered the Italian cheesecake ($5.95) and my friend chose spumoni ice cream ($3.95). We enjoyed both, but neither is made in house.

We didn’t decide to give Mama Mia’s the boot, but it wasn’t the best Italian food we’ve eaten.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com

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