Walla Walla has long since shed the Cinderella persona of American viticultural areas, given the much publicized radical growth of new wineries over the past decade. The current number of wineries in the Walla Walla area is hovering around 100. (That was at breakfast. I’m sure it will have changed by dinner.)
But, as with the fairy tale, questions remain. Does the glass slipper fit? If so, when do things start changing from jewel-encrusted chariots and majestic stallions to pumpkins and mice?
We’ve all been witnessing the great Walla Walla wine rush, similar to the great California gold rush, and that makes me ask whether a similar fate impends. It stands to reason that a few basic rules of the natural world will come in play, such as natural selection and survival of the fittest.
This is by no means a predicition of a gloomy fate for any hard-working winemaker, winery owner or anyone directly associated with “Boomtown” W2. I tip my cork-dork fedora to each and every one of them.
Questions do come to mind, though. One, is the consumer base expanding as rapidly as the supply of new wineries? And if it is, will these new consumers be willing to pay the price that many of these new wineries are charging based simply on a business plan formula?
It seems, at least on the surface, that the answer is yes to both questions. But to really reach out to the masses – as opposed to just the classes – wineries have to find their “wheelhouse” of acceptable pricing, while continuing to produce a high-quality product.
There is a winery in south Walla Walla that consistently has found this “wheelhouse” and consequently has been hitting them out of the park for years. Rulo Winery was founded in 2000 by winemaker and co-owner Kurt Schlicker and his wife, Vicki, who handles many of the day-to-day operations, including masterfully operating the winery’s forklift.
The best thing that I can say about these two fun-loving, hospitable folks is that they just plain get it. All you have to do is pull a cork on any of the beautifully crafted Rhone and Burgundian-styled wines that Kurt has made over the past half-decade, and two things stand out: the juice rocks and your wallet doesn’t hurt. And if you happen to make the effort to “cast a shadow on their door,” as Kurt so eloquently puts it, then you can expect the full-court press of humorous, nonpretentious, highly informative and enjoyable hospitality.
Kurt actually is a pediatric anesthesiologist for his day job, while he moonlights as a giddy, passionate, control-freak winemaker. I guess that means that he can either put you out quickly or he can put you out slowly. All kidding aside, Kurt, Vicki and Rulo Winery represent what I feel is the correct direction of the Walla Walla wine explosion, which is to keep raising the bar on quality, while keeping a lid on ego-driven, business plan pricing.
I think that I’ve found the glass slipper, and it fits perfectly at Rulo Winery, where it’s always a ball.
Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, 360-756-0422 or wick@purplesmilewines.com.
Rulo wines
Here are a few Thanksgiving-friendly Rulo wines currently available at select local retailers:
Rulo 2004 Syrah $20
A beauty and one of the best wines for the money in the marketplace. Rich, full-bodied and packed with flavors of blueberries, plum and chocolate-covered cherries with a tad bit of smoked meat to round out the full-meal-deal.
Rulo 2005 Viognier $18
Now here’s a turkey day winner! The wine bursts with vibrant honeysuckle and spice notes on the nose with hints of sweet fruit but finishes completely dry. Flavors run the gamut from pear to melon to grapefruit and pineapple.
Rulo 2005 Combine $15
This sauvignon blanc/viognier blend is bright, fresh and tantalizingly juicy with fresh peach, citrus and a hit of spice. Another great wine to plunk down on the table for this year’s holiday meals.
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