Shelter on the harbor

Red hats and purple dresses had taken over the back of the Rose of Gig Harbor B&B &Tea Room’s dining area.

The animated conversation of the women wearing the outfits, members of the Red Hat Society, left no doubt that they knew how to have a good time and where to score a good meal.

Gig Harbor’s downtown area has the welcome mat out for visitors, while fending off development pressures and saving a bit of the past, at least along a 1.5-mile shoreline corridor.

From a maritime history standpoint, the efforts are just in the nick of time. Sawmills and shipyards are gone, most of the net sheds have been torn down, and purse seiners are outnumbered by yachts.

But the local historical society has several maritime projects under way and plans for a new museum. Complement those efforts with a few class acts on the culinary front and good views of the harbor, and downtown becomes a draw.

Stop at the visitor’s center for “Harbor Guide &Artwalk” and “Gig Harbor Waterfront History Walk” brochures.

Take a walk in the footsteps of Slavic and Scandinavian immigrants who, in 1867, began arriving in the protected harbor found by the Wilkes survey expedition in 1841.

The men aboard the captain’s gig (hence the name for the harbor), looking for shelter in a storm, “discovered” the harbor, already known to local Indian tribes.

A community project built a hand-crafted replica of the 24-foot-long boat. Launched in 1989 but given up due to funding woes in 1993, the Porpoise returned home this spring and rests at the Gig Harbor Peninsula Historic Museum near the northwest corner of the harbor.

Stop here early in your visit for an overview of American Indian, logging, fishing and boat-building history. Be sure to check out the Rooster Races.

History is scattered among the art, gift shops and public spaces along the shorelines.

The site of the last ferry landing in Gig Harbor is seen from a road-end park near the harbor’s mouth, with views of Mount Rainier, Point Defiance and the Tacoma Narrows, as well as the 22-foot-tall lighthouse at the harbor entrance.

With brochures in hand, head north. Notice how many old homes are still owned, and sometimes lived in, by pioneers’ descendants.

About 10 art galleries are within walking distance of each other on Harborview Drive and Pioneer Way, the center of action on this section of the harbor.

Samuel Jerisich Park has a public dock, restrooms, picnic tables and art. The Croatian was one of three fishermen who arrived in 1867 and became the first white settlers. Nearby is a net shed which is to be restored.

Pleasure boats dominate the next stretch of waterfront, although commercial fishing boats are here, too.

Harborview Drive eventually curls around the north end of the harbor near Beach Basket’s Christmas Shop, marked by a giant Father Christmas holding a blue spruce. Three floors of gifts include wall-to-wall spreads of Department 56 villages.

North-end businesses include Anthony’s, Gig Harbor Kayak Center and Finholm Market Place. Nearby is the Finholm View Climb.

The north end is also home to the Waterfront Inn, the only accommodation in the corridor that sits directly on the water.

Built in 1918 as one of the original fishing family’s homes, the B&B has a new dock. A bit of wood from the old dock, which once supported a net shed, has been incorporated into the remodel.

McFood chains have not wedged their french fries into downtown. No loss with choices such as the Tides Tavern, Green Turtle Restaurant and Anthony’s.

The Green Turtle will knock off your culinary socks. Roman’s baby lobster cakes ($10) with ginger, wasabi, pineapple and mango melt in your mouth, the pear salad ($7) is a rare find, and the main course menu would be a star in Seattle.

Tides Tavern has been at its waterfront location for decades. Live music Friday and Saturday nights draws boaters and landlubbers; sandwiches, platters and entree salads are in the $7 to $9 range.

Anthony’s Homeport provides a familiar name and menu. Dungeness crab cakes sauteed with ginger plum sauce and beurre blanc ($23.95) or chop chop seafood salad ($18.95) are delicious choices.

But the biggest surprise is Rose of Gig Harbor B&B’s high tea ($19) in the historic district, from the fresh-baked scones and Devonshire cream to the tea sandwiches and bread pudding.

Think the Empress Hotel’s tea in Victoria, B.C., with hardier sandwiches.

And the Red Hat Society.