Some of us, like wine, age better than others

As my individual vintage recedes deeper into the dark recesses of life’s cellar, I’m constantly being reminded of many realities of life and a few tidbits of wisdom that have been sparingly poured into my glass over the years.

One glaring reality is the sad and somewhat apropos truth that I was born between two tremendous vintages of Bordeaux. The ’59s were sublime and the ’61s eventually unveiled subtle, refined and polished nuance typical of some of the very best vintages ever. A troubling fact indeed, and one that leaves me very little recourse other than to cling to the late-baby-boomer evenness of my year, which is excruciatingly difficult for someone so odd.

A second reality is one shared by us all (including a fine bottle of Bordeaux): the relentless and universal decline of all things, a process known as entropy. We can’t shake it, so we find ways to live with it.

Here’s my chance to acknowledge and pay homage to Dr. Tom Stonecipher and the gang (who happen to be the best “body builders” in the bone business) and say thanks for the perforated titanium hip joint that just might allow this cork-dork to cellar well and avoid the perception of being an off vintage.

With a great bottle of Bordeaux, or any other bottle of wine for that matter, there is a definite life span (just like the human hip joint of a weekend worrier), and the best thing we can do is enjoy this bottled art when it’s at its prettiest. Of course, this beauty is on the palate of the beholder. Where one person may ultimately enjoy the bright fresh fruit of youth, another just may prefer the silky texture, integrated tannins and fruit that are a bit more stewed. This brings to mind some of the most frequently asked questions for anyone in the fermented grape juice business: “I bought this special bottle of wine. When should I drink it?” Or, “After I open up a bottle of wine, how long can I keep it before it goes bad?”

When it comes to the world of wine, wisdom seems to be a synonym for pulling tons of corks. It is only with experience that we all can determine the answer to these questions, and wisdom can be had only with the appropriate interpretation of these experiences.

And then there’s this weird, pseudo-reality tidbit of wisdom called “common sense.” I once had a gentleman tell me he had purchased a case of Bordeaux from an incredible vintage (1982) and great producer (Chateau Mouton Rothschild) and that he had yet to open a bottle, “Just waiting for the right time,” he said. “Oh, and I’d just hate to open that beautiful wood box,” he continued. After questioning the quality of this guy’s life that didn’t provide a special enough moment in more than 20 years to open a bottle of this wine, my wisdom (laced with a healthy dose of common sense) advised him to sell the juice. That particular wine was worth way more to him (and many a collector) with the cork still in it.

If you are a consumer who might want to lay down a few better bottles for enhanced future enjoyment, and not someone just interested in fondling a bottle or wooden box in your cellar, then here are a few simple wine realities and tidbits of wisdom.

The vast majority of wine produced around the globe (I’m guessing more than 98 percent) is meant to be consumed young. By young, I mean within the first year of release. This doesn’t mean that wine will become vinegar if not consumed in 12 months, it’s just that the winemaker’s intent was to have the wine be best expressed upon release.

Aging wine can be a tricky business, in that we must rely on either an expert, a review in a wine publication or advice from your local retailer. Or, we can take the reins ourselves and make some pretty accurate buying and cellaring decisions based on our wits and palates.

If we divide wine into two categories (red and white) and apply my hypothesis on the intent of global wineries for just white wine to be consumed in the first year, the percentage would be more like 99.8 percent. Unless we are discussing very expensive grand cru white Burgundy, German, Alsacian or a very limited number of New World white wines, for all intents and purposes, we can limit the discussion of aging to reds (at the risk of raising the ire of a few die-hard collectors of white wine).

Remember, wine wisdom comes from pulling lots of corks, but I didn’t say you had to do all the pulling. Attend as many tastings as you can, and let retailers do some pre-screening and cork pulling – think efficiency. Then, after sampling a few wines and making a buying decision, pony up for a six-pack (half the cost of a case, and you can still get a discount). Then put the wine away, lay it down, pop it in the cellar or just keep it in a cool dark place for awhile. You liked it young, so what’s it going to be like in six months or one year or 18 months … I think you get the gist.

Another test is to buy just one bottle, open it up and take a glass or two, then put the cork back in and leave it for the next night. If the wine is better than the first night, there’s a good chance that means the wine will age gracefully for four to five years. If you go two days and it tastes better, add four to five years more, and so on. The most important thing is to have fun and try your best to avoid cellar remorse.

We’re all in this big cellar together, and the sad truth is that some of us are going to age more gracefully that others. And some of us may even require topping off and recorking from time to time, but my mantra is as it always has been … Carpe vinum.

Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, 360-756-0422 or wick@purplesmilewines.com.