Welcome back to an old friend

  • By Anna Poole / Herald Restaurant Critic
  • Thursday, November 4, 2004 9:00pm
  • LifeGo-See-Do

EVERETT – In April, a fire closed the extremely popular eatery The Sisters, which is located downtown in the Everett Public Market.

When I visited on Saturday, the restaurant was finishing up its first week of being open again. Customers were elated, and counter staff said it was the busiest week ever for the restaurant.

Being open on Saturdays is new for The Sisters, and only breakfast is served, from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. (plus quiche and items from the bakery case). When I arrived, a handful of customers were finishing their meals, and I was the only one ordering. When I left, a line of customers stretched from the cash register out the door.

The breakfast menu features combinations of eggs with ham, bacon or sausage, plus toast ($6.50), a breakfast sandwich ($4.95, $6.25), a tortilla breakfast ($3.25, $6.50) and a chorizo scramble burrito ($7.95). Plus omelets ($5.75 to $7.75) and french toast and hotcakes ($3.95 to $7.50). There are also many other choices – muffins, scones, coffeecake, cereal, fruit and beverages.

During the reconstruction, the only change co-owner Victoria “Tory” Quall made to the menu was adding a grilled chicken sandwich to the lunch menu. There are 12 sandwiches on the menu, including humus and pita bread. Prices range from $3.50 to $5.95. With nine of the sandwich choices, customers can mix half a sandwich with a cup of soup or a deli salad ($5.95). Soups are made fresh daily and a bowl is $3.50.

From the grill comes hamburgers ($5.50), the new grilled chicken ($6.95) and reuben sandwiches ($5.95). For vegetarians, there’s a yummy-sounding selection called a nutburger ($5.95), which is made from chopped cashews, sunflower seeds and egg. All the sandwiches are served on house-made wheat rolls or different types of bread.

Various meal-size salads with homemade dressings are $5.50 to $6.95. And there are daily specials that regulars eagerly anticipate.

The new bakery case holds an array of freshly baked cookies, brownies, muffins, scones and coffee cakes plus slices of pie and cake. The daily soup and quiche specials are listed on a chalkboard behind the cash register.

The restaurant is inside an antique mall and the new furnishings take advantage of the setting. The separate dining area is furnished with a charming array of tables and chairs from earlier days. An antique sideboard serves as the self-serve coffee and tea stand. There’s a tray of mismatched flatware from days gone by and the heavy white pottery cups remind one of coffee shops from another era.

After pouring myself a cup of coffee, I selected a table near the dining room door so I could watch the flow of customers and anticipated the usual 10- to 20-minute wait for my breakfast. I ordered one of the three quiche choices – apple sausage and roasted red pepper ($6.50). The quiche arrived before I could get the newspaper unfolded. It was steaming hot and served with cold slices of melon and orange.

The quiche’s eggs were light and fluffy, and mixed perfectly with the cheese. The sausage added a touch of sweetness while the roasted peppers gave everything some zip. The crust was flaky and rich with flavor. The quiche was superb and quickly disappeared. Because it was so delicious, I decided to sample something else and I selected the last slice of strawberry-rhubarb pie. The sweet-tart filling and flaky crust were just as tasty as the quiche.

As I enjoyed the last bites of hand-rolled crust edge and sips of coffee, a customer from a nearby business walked in and said, “I didn’t think you’d ever open.”

The wait for delicious meals is finally over.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com

The Sisters

2804 Grand Ave., Everett; 425-252-0480

Specialty: breakfast and lunch

Hours: breakfast, 7 to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday; lunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday

Price range: moderate

Liquor: none

Smoking: non-smoking

Reservations: not necessary

Disabled accessibility: no apparent barriers

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard

The Sisters

2804 Grand Ave., Everett; 425-252-0480

Specialty: breakfast and lunch

Hours: breakfast, 7 to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday; lunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday

Price range: moderate

Liquor: none

Smoking: non-smoking

Reservations: not necessary

Disabled accessibility: no apparent barriers

Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard

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