Attending a Gaelic football match at Dublin’s Croke Park is a great way to meet new Irish friends — as long as you root for the same side. (Rick Steves’ Europe photo)

Attending a Gaelic football match at Dublin’s Croke Park is a great way to meet new Irish friends — as long as you root for the same side. (Rick Steves’ Europe photo)

What U.S. travelers can learn from Europe’s traditional sports

  • By Wire Service
  • Sunday, July 3, 2016 1:30am
  • Life

When I need a break from dimly lit cathedrals and musty museums, I connect with European culture by watching local sports. I get double the pleasure when I join in — and the great news is — you don’t need to be an athlete.

Several years ago in southern England, I joined a neighborhood gang for a lesson in cricket. The point, they told me, is for the bowler (who’s like a baseball pitcher) to hit the wicket (a gate-like wooden thing) with the ball and get the batsman out, while the batsman protects the wicket by hitting the ball across the field (like a baseball hitter). OK, I’m still far from understanding this baffling British pastime, but it sure was fun.

Some games are easier for me to grasp. In France, “petanque,” also known as “boules,” offers the perfect fresh-air escape. I call this game “the horseshoes of France”; it’s played on gravelly courts in every Provencal village, and in Parisian parks such as along the Seine and in the Esplanade des Invalides. It’s entertaining to watch — especially if you understand the rules. You want your boule (a heavy metal ball) closer to the tiny target ball than your opponent’s. There are usually two members on a team. You go back and forth until there are no more balls to throw. (You’ll find a similar game in Italy, where it’s called “bocce.”)

In French Basque country, “pelota” — similar to what you might know as jai alai — is indicative of the strong, lively Basque spirit. Players in white pants and red scarves or shirts use a “txistera” — a long, hook-shaped wicker basket — to whip a ball (smaller and far bouncier than a baseball) back and forth off walls at more than 150 miles per hour. Most matches are not professional, but betting on them is common. It can also be played without a racket — this handball version is used as a starter game for kids. Children use a bouncy rubber ball, while adults use a ball with a wooden center that’s rather rough on the hands and needs a lot of strength to keep moving. It seems that every small Basque town has two things: a church and a pelota court (called a “fronton”). You’ll often see half-courts (which is kind of like playing Ping-Pong with half a table against a wall). The tourist-information office in the port town of St-Jean-de-Luz sells tickets and has a schedule of pelota matches throughout the area.

On summer weekends in Scotland, you’ll run into a cross between a track meet and a county fair — the Scottish Highland Games. The “heavy events” are always the hit of these gatherings. Brawny lads compete for prize money by heaving all kinds of hefty things. In the “weight throw” event, burly, kilted athletes spin like ballerinas before releasing a 28- or 56-pound ball on a chain. In the “weight over the bar” event, competitors can use only one hand to toss a 56-pound weight over a horizontal bar. While the starting height can vary, it often begins at 10 feet and ends closer to 15 feet. (That’s like tossing a 5-year-old over a double-decker bus.) And, of course, no Highland Games are complete without tossing the caber. The objective is to flip a tree-trunk-like pole — typically 19 feet tall and weighing 175 pounds — end over end, keeping it in a straight line.

And while you’re in Scotland, keep an eye out for the unique Highland sport of shinty: a full-contact game that encourages tackling and fielding airborne balls, with players swinging their sticks (called camans) perilously through the air. The easiest place to see shinty is at Bught Park in Inverness (check www.spanglefish.com/invernessshintyclub for matches).

In Ireland, the wild national pastime of Gaelic football is a heartfelt expression of Irish identity. It’s perhaps best described as a mix between soccer and rugby with no injury time-outs. You can carry the ball, but must bounce or kick it every four steps. Seeing a match at Croke Park Stadium in Dublin, surrounded by wonderfully spirited Irish fans, is an incredible experience. Matches are held most weekend afternoons in summer, culminating in the hugely popular all-Ireland finals in September. Choose a county to support, buy their colors to wear or wave, scream yourself hoarse, and you’ll be a temporary local. (You can also visit the GAA Museum and tour the stadium if you can’t attend a game.)

©2016 Rick Steves

Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Children play and look up at a large whale figure hanging from the ceiling at the Imagine Children’s Museum (Olivia Vanni / The herald)
Fun for all ages: The best places for family adventures

From thrilling activities to relaxing outings, here’s where to make unforgettable family memories!

Everett P. Fog, 15, in front of an Everett mural along Colby Avenue on Wednesday, Jan. 22, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Hello, Everett! No escape when your name is same as the town

Everett P. Fog, 15, sees and hears his first name wherever he goes. His middle name is also epic.

2025 Nissan Rogue Rock Creek edition (Provided by Nissan).
2025 Nissan Rogue has new Rock Creek edition

Enhanced outdoor capability is a boon for the more adventurous.

Futuristic Kona Limited Photo Provided By Hyundai Newsroom.
2025 Hyundai Kona Limited SUV Gets Roomier

All-Wheel Drive Option Add To All Trims

Jared Meads takes a breath after dunking in an ice bath in his back yard while his son Fallen, 5, reads off the water temperature on Tuesday, Oct. 15, 2024 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Chill out: Dive into the cold plunge craze

Plungers say they get mental clarity and relief for ails in icy water in tubs, troughs and clubs.

Schack exhibit to highlight Camano Island watercolorists

“Four Decades of Friendship: John Ebner & John Ringen” will be on display Jan. 16 through Feb. 9.

Provided by Bridges Pets, Gifts, & Water Gardens.
Discover where to find the best pet supplies in town

Need the perfect store to spoil your furry friends? Herald readers have you covered.

XRT Trim Adds Rugged Features Designed For Light Off-Roading
Hyundai Introduces Smarter, More Capable Tucson Compact SUV For 2025

Innovative New Convenience And Safety Features Add Value

Sequoia photo provided by Toyota USA Newsroom
If Big Is Better, 2024 Toyota Sequoia Is Best

4WD Pro Hybrid With 3-Rows Elevates Full-Size

2025 Toyota Land Cruiser (Provided by Toyota).
2025 Toyota Land Cruiser revives its roots

After a 3-year hiatus, the go-anywhere SUV returns with a more adventurous vibe.

Enjoy the wilderness in the CX-50. Photo provided by Mazda USA Newsroom
2025 Mazda CX-50 Adds Hybrid Capability to Turbo Options

Line-Up Receives More Robust List Of Standard Equipment

Practical And Functional bZ4X basks in sunshine. Photo provided by Toyota Newsroom.
2024 bZ4X Puts Toyota Twist On All-Electric SUV’s

Modern Styling, Tech & All-Wheel Drive Highlight

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.