China suspends climbing on north side of Everest

SEATTLE — Hundreds of climbers and Sherpas who were attempting to climb Mount Everest from the north side when a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck the region are packing their gear and heading out after expedition leaders said Chinese authorities closed all climbing in Tibet for the spring.

Meanwhile, some climbers in Nepal have announced plans to try to return to the mountain, a move that was criticized by others in the climbing community.

In Tibet, climbing guide Adrian Ballinger with California-based Alpenglow Expeditions said in email Wednesday that they were working to leave the country soon.

“We are focusing our efforts on how we can help in Nepal, how we can get our members home, and how we can get our Sherpa team back to the Khumbu,” said Ballinger, who was leading a team of 10 climbers and 12 Sherpas.

No one climbing on the north side was injured following Saturday’s deadly quake, but Ballinger said the China Tibet Mountaineering Association called the 25 teams made up of about 300 climbers on the mountain back to base camp to discuss whether to allow them to continue.

On Wednesday, Chinese officials held their final meeting and announced their decision to end the climbing season. Ballinger said two reasons were cited: Safety concerns over possible additional earthquakes and solidarity with Nepal and the Sherpas.

“China believes Sherpas should be able to go home and begin rebuilding,” he said.

Though there were no injuries on Everest’s north side, Ballinger said the quake was very powerful.

“We were eating lunch during the first. It started slowly and then became violent, triggering big rock falls and icefalls of the surrounding peaks. Intellectually we felt safe in the middle of a big broad valley away from the mountains that were avalanching. But emotionally it was still scary,” he said. “And of course our thoughts immediately went to the South Side where the camps and route are far more exposed to avalanches.”

Nineteen people were killed in the base camp on the Nepal side of the mountain when a quake-triggered avalanche swept through.

In Nepal, some climbers have received permission to try again for the summit.

Russell Brice, leading a team for the London-based Himalayan Experience Limited, posted a blog Wednesday saying they are considering a return to Everest.

“Our Himex team will stay at Everest BC for the next few days and we will then decide if we will continue or not,” he said.

Brice said he met with the Nepal Mountaineering Association and the Minister of the Ministry of Tourism on Wednesday and received permission to fly loads to Camp 1 after helicopters were free from rescue operations.

Messages sent to the Himex team were not immediately returned.

Decisions to try to climb Everest this season drew criticism from U.S. climbers.

Longtime mountain guide Peter Athans of Bainbridge Island, Washington, who has summited Everest seven times, called the idea disrespectful.

He said two climbers last year helicoptered gear and a support team into camp 2.

“Ethically, it’s neither climbing the route and neither is it very respectful to the suffering of the Nepalese who need heli support immediately,” Athans said. “The climbers would be diverting this critical resource at a dire moment in the crisis.”

Athans also criticized the use of helicopters to evacuate climbers after the avalanche hit, saying they had enough supplies to say in Camp 1 for a period of time and the helicopters could have been used to help earthquake victims instead.

“It does appear there was a priority to move Western people out of harm’s way without helping the Nepali people,” he said.

Ballinger also said the resources should be used on earthquake victims.

“My thought is expedition teams on the ground in Nepal — guides, doctors, Sherpas — could be using their skills and strength for far better purposes,” he said.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Local News

Olivia Vanni / The Herald 
The Mukilteo Lighthouse. Built in 1906, it’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Snohomish County.
The Mukilteo Lighthouse. Built in 1906, it’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Snohomish County. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Mukilteo mayor vetoes council-approved sales tax

The tax would have helped pay for transportation infrastructure, but was also set to give Mukilteo the highest sales tax rate in the state.

Marysville Mayor Jon Nehring gives the state of the city address at the Marysville Civic Center on Wednesday, Jan. 31, 2024, in Marysville, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
Marysville council approves interim middle housing law

The council passed the regulations to prevent a state model code from taking effect by default. It expects to approve final rules by October.

x
State audit takes issue with Edmonds COVID grant monitoring

The audit report covered 2023 and is the third since 2020 that found similar issues with COVID-19 recovery grant documentation.

Bothell
Bothell man pleads guilty to sexual abuse of Marysville middle schoolers

The man allegedly sexually assaulted three students in exchange for vapes and edibles in 2022. His sentencing is set for Aug. 29.

Larsen talks proposed Medicaid cuts during Compass Health stop in Everett

Compass Health plans to open its new behavioral health center in August. Nearly all of the nonprofit’s patients rely on Medicaid.

Snohomish County Health Department Director Dennis Worsham on Tuesday, June 11, 2024 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Snohomish County Health Department director tapped as WA health secretary

Dennis Worsham became the first director of the county health department in January 2023. His last day will be July 3.

Everett
Everett police: Man sold drugs to woman prior to fatal overdose

In May, the man sold drugs to an Everett woman in her 40s who later died from an overdose, police said.

Community members gather for the dedication of the Oso Landslide Memorial following the ten-year remembrance of the slide on Friday, March 22, 2024, at the Oso Landslide Memorial in Oso, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
The Daily Herald garners 6 awards from regional journalism competition

The awards recognize the best in journalism from media outlets across Alaska, Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington.

Missing Marysville boy, 10, found safe and sound

Police said the boy was last seen Sunday morning before leaving to go for a run at a nearby middle school.

Red tape hangs in the front of the entrance to a burned down Center for Human Services building along 204th Street on Monday, July 7, 2025 in Lynnwood, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Lynnwood fire destroys behavioral health nonprofit building

The cause of the fire is under investigation. The building housed an intensive mental health support program for youth and families.

Logo for news use featuring the municipality of Gold Bar in Snohomish County, Washington. 220118
Lynnwood man dies in fatal crash on US 2 near Gold Bar

The Washington State Patrol said the driver was street racing prior to the crash on Friday afternoon.

Thousands gather to watch fireworks over Lake Ballinger from Nile Shrine Golf Course and Lake Ballinger Park on Thursday, July 3, 2025 in Mountlake Terrace, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Thousands ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at Mountlake Terrace fireworks show

The city hosts its Independence Day celebrations the day before the July 4 holiday.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.