Don’t be a louse; have some souse

  • JudyraeKruse / Herald Columnist
  • Sunday, October 8, 2006 9:00pm
  • Life

Although we’ve now run through our entire supply of goetta recipes, we’re still good to go with scrapple one more time.

Longtime Forum helper-outer Katharine Garrett of Arlington starts us off today, writing, “This recipe for Philadelphia scrapple is from my 1950s Betty Crocker cookbook. Sharon Weiden requested a recipe using sausage and onion, but perhaps the boiled pork could be replaced with sausage and then onion added. I hope this helps remind her of her great-grandmother’s ‘pork sausage.’”

Next, when Everett cook Phyllis Henshaw sent along her recipes for Dutch pawnhaas and Pennsylvania Dutch oatmeal scrapple, which appeared in the Forum the other day, she included a couple of somewhat similar specialties.

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She says the following recipe for ponhaws (scrapple) is taken from a copy of the “Pennsylvania Dutch Cook Book” she bought in Lebanon, Pa., in 1969.

“The souse recipe, from the same book, I included for a fun read,” she adds. “It’s close to a dish my mother made which was called ziltz. She didn’t use pig’s head or hocks, but did use pig ears and pork neck bones. It’s very similar to headcheese, but better. We used to have it for a light supper on Sundays, and ate it sprinkled with salt, pepper and vinegar, and always with rye bread and butter.

“Whoever said we didn’t dine high (or low) on the hog back then?”

Now then, for those of you who weren’t around for the great Forum souse-a-thon in 1991 (which included not only souses, but recipes for sultz, sulz, syltu and sulc, too), or for anybody unfamiliar with this type of thing, Phyllis’s recipe could well be a real eye opener. So, too, might be the ponhaws recipe …

Philadelphia scrapple

2pounds lean boneless pork

2quarts boiling water with 2 teaspoons salt added

1 1/2cups cornmeal

2cups cold water

1/4teaspoon pepper

1/4teaspoon savory and sage, mixed

Salt to taste

Simmer meat in salted water until very tender, about 2 hours. Lift from stock and shred into fine pieces with a fork. Discard all but 1 quart of the stock; bring stock to boil. Mix together the cornmeal and cold water and stir into boiling stock; cook, stirring, until thick. Add pepper, savory, sage and salt. Stir meat into stock mixture and cook 5 minutes; pour into a buttered 5- by 9-inch loaf pan. Chill, then slice and fry until lightly browned.

Pennsylvania Dutch ponhaws

Separate one hog’s head into halves. Remove and discard the eyes and brains. Scrape and thoroughly clean the head and teeth. Put into a large heavy kettle and cover with 4 or 5 quarts cold water. Simmer gently for 2 to 3 hours, or until the meat falls from the bones. Skim grease from surface; remove meat, chop fine and return to liquid in kettle. Season with salt and pepper to taste and 1 teaspoon ground sage. Sift in granulated yellow cornmeal, stirring constantly, until mixture is thickened to the consistency of soft mush. Cook over low heat 1 hour, stirring occasionally, as mixture scorches easily. When cooked, pour the scrapple into greased loaf pans and cool. Cover and store in a cool place. To serve, cut into thin slices and fry in hot fat until crisp and browned.

Souse

Clean one pig’s head, remove tongue and split head open. Clean 6 pig’s feet and 6 pork hocks. Place pig’s head, feet and hocks in a large, heavy kettle and cover with water. Add 2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Bring to boiling and cook until tender. Remove meat from liquid and cool. When cooled, remove meat from bones and cut into pieces. Add 2 sliced onions, 3 peppercorns, 1 bay leaf and 1 blade mace to liquid in kettle. Boil until liquid is reduced by half, strain and cool. Skim fat from cooled liquid. Place fat, meat pieces and 3/4 cup vinegar in a kettle and bring to boiling. Turn into a crock and add as much of the cooking liquid as it will hold. When cold, this will set and may be cut into slices to fry, or used for salad or sandwich meat.

Makes about 41/2 pounds.

The next Forum will appear in Wednesday’s Food section.

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