CAMANO ISLAND — Now that we’re often spending 50 bucks at the supermarket for tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s lunch, a restaurant like El Morena can be a good thing.
For less than $50, a family of four will get their fill at this humble restaurant at Camano Commons, a commercial plaza at Terry’s Corner, the island’s main junction.
Nothing on the menu costs more than $12, and most selections are less than $10. That’s good news for tired kitchen slaves.
That said, foodies might want to cross El Morena off their list, judging from a recent weekend visit.
On my plate of carne asada, I could not detect that the beef, probably skirt steak, had been marinated or spiced. A side of green salsa helped a little; salt and pepper helped more. The accompanying avocado slices were underripe, and the rice was studded with bits of what appeared to be the frozen “vegetable medley” my mom used to serve.
Luckily the beans were lightly topped with a soft cheese instead of the pool of melted cheddar you’ll find at the typical glop ‘n’ stuff Americanized Mexican cafe. The corn tortillas were fresh. Service was prompt and attentive.
The menu includes the expected burritos, enchiladas and tamales, which should satisfy kids and fussy eaters, as will the chips and salsa that arrive soon after you sit down (the salsa was good).
But I’d recommend trying one of El Morena’s less-familiar traditional Mexican dishes, such as menudo, a spicy soup; muiltas, a quesadillalike affair that contains grilled meat; and birria, a spicy meat stew. You can wash it down with the usual selection of Mexican beers.
I’d probably stop short of trying the fried pigs’ feet or the crepa, a crepelike confection that’s topped with something else I haven’t seen since Mom’s heyday in the kitchen — condensed milk.
El Morena won’t win any James Beard awards, but for Stanwood-Camano families with tight budgets and frayed nerves from too many after-work kitchen ordeals, it’s worth a visit.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Contact reviewers at features@heraldnet.com.
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